Novi recepti

Šefica kuhinje Skye Gyngell sprema novi restoran

Šefica kuhinje Skye Gyngell sprema novi restoran

Kuhar s Michelinovim zvjezdicama otvorit će novi restoran u londonskom Sohou

Kuharica s Michelinovom zvjezdicom Skye Gyngell ovog oktobra otvara novi restoran koji će se još imenovati u londonskom naselju Soho. Heckfield Place, novi hotel u Hampshireu koji bi trebao biti otvoren u ožujku 2013., podržat će novi restoran, prema Bloomberg News.

Gyngell će biti kulinarski direktor restorana koji će smjestiti oko 120 ljudi i posluživati ​​proizvode s farme Heckfield Place.

"Zaista sam uzbuđen što ću ići tamo gdje ima puno neonskih svjetala. Trebalo bi biti bučniji, s nižom cijenom, a mi ćemo zadržati stolove za ljude bez rezervacija", rekao je Gyngell u intervjuu za Bloomberg News . "Želim da to budu neformalna jela s više mješavina nego jela s tri slijeda."

Australijski kuhar napustio je njen restoran Petersham Nurseries Café, ubrzo nakon što je prošlog decembra dobio Michelinovu zvjezdicu. Nagradu smatra "prokletstvom", jer je promijenila dinamiku njenog nekada malog, rustikalnog restorana sa staklenikom. Petershamova infrastruktura, sa zemljanim podom, ukrašenim stolovima i nepretencioznom posjećenošću, nije mogla podržati gomilu gostiju koji su privukli Michelinovu zvjezdicu, prema London Evening Standard.


Recepti za kuhanje iz prave brze hrane su poput Nigela Slatera pored sebe

Jednog dana 1992. telefon je zazvonio u Books for Cooks, čuvenoj specijalizovanoj knjižari u londonskom Notting Hillu. Odgovorila mu je Clarissa Dickson Wright, koja je još nekoliko godina kasnije stekla slavu kao jedna od debelih dama. Pozivatelj, koji se nije identificirao, želio je znati imaju li kopije novoobjavljenog Prava brza hrana od Nigel Slater "I Clarissa me je samo oduševila, rekla mi je da je to čudesna knjiga", kaže Nigel sada. "Tada sam znao da će sve biti u redu."

To je ukusan, iako poznat djelić potcjenjivanja od Nigela (ne očekujte novinarsku formalnost prezimena, on je i prijatelj i kolega). Prava brza hrana nije bio vodeći naslov za knjige o pingvinima. Objavljeno je s tako malim budžetom da nema fotografija. Pa ipak, to je brzo postalo tako veliki uspjeh da su prodajni predstavnici morali voziti unaokolo popunjavajući knjižare iz primjeraka koje su nosili u prtljažniku.

Skoro tri decenije kasnije, ostaje u štampi i sa dobrim razlogom. Neke kuharice daju uvid u specifičnu kulturu. Drugi se bave nizom tehnika i metoda. A onda postoji Prava brza hrana, koji je svijet upoznao s posebnim glasom, a senzibilitet prema beskrajno ohrabrujućem pristupu ne tupoj mehaniki kuhanja, već radostima dobrog jela i življenja. Talasa se sa dobrim ukusom. Najdželov dobar ukus. Prava brza hrana uvijek će biti uvršten u ovu seriju. Morali smo samo čekati da autor odmori tjedan dana od redovne kolumne. "To je tako velikodušna knjiga", kaže kolega pisac hrane Nigella Lawson, "jer omogućava čitatelju da shvati o čemu se radi u kuhanju. Objašnjava koji su bitni, a koji ne. Od njega se može kuhati cijeli život. "

Do ranih 90 -ih Nigel je radio kao stilist hrane za reklamne snimke. Kao sporedna stvar, za novoosnovani časopis pisao je ono što opisuje kao „recepte sa proširenim opisima slika“ Marie Claire. "Oni su bili više od toga", kaže Louise Haines, koja mu je postala urednica u Penguin Books -u i koja tri decenije kasnije ostaje njegova urednica. “Zatekao sam sebe kako izrezujem sve ove recepte za vlastitu upotrebu i odjednom sam pomislio da ovo nešto znači. Bilo je mnogo briljantnih ideja. ” Pisala mu je predlažući knjigu. "I odgovorio sam", kaže Najdžel, "hvala, ali mislim da ne bih mogao napisati knjigu."

'Bilo je 30 minuta do udarne ljupkosti': svinjski kotleti

Haines je istrajao. Sastali su se na ručku i razradili plan. "Željela je knjigu koja će joj omogućiti da bez velike trgovine dobije hranu na sto iz onoga što joj je bilo u ormarićima", prisjeća se Nigel. I tako se bacio na posao. Sada možemo uzeti zdravo za gotovo Nigelovu sposobnost pisanja kao da razgovara s nama i samo s nama. Taj glas se potpuno formirao ispočetka. „Dok mi je slao poglavlja, bilo mi je zadovoljstvo otkriti da je pisao kao anđeo“, kaže Haines.

U uvodu on najavljuje da ne sadrži "nikakve komplicirane procedure, nema dvoumljenja oko zahvaćenih aranžmana na velikim pločama i efektnih ukrasa". Ima 350 -tak "recepata" koji se mogu brzo dovršiti, idealno u roku od 30 minuta. Tu sam riječ stavio obrnutim zarezima jer su mnogi od njih manje detaljne metode nego ideje o tome šta biste mogli učiniti stavljajući lijepe stvari u međusobno društvo.

„Intenzivno i sa korom“: tandoori pileća bedra

Raspoređen je po grupama sastojaka - jaja, meso ribe ili tjestenine, sir ili voće - sa prijedlozima ispod svakog. Čini se da su neki uključeni. Tu je crveni cipal s koromačem i Pernodom. Tu su ljupko naslovljeni "boranija, poširana jaja i ukrašeno lišće" i basnoslovno nazvani rumbledethumps, škotski pogled na colcannon. Ali Prava brza hrana je također jedna od najboljih zbirki nagađenih prijedloga sendviča ikada objavljenih. Ako se može jesti između dva komada hljeba ili gurnuti u šapicu, Najdžel je za to.

Uzmite hladni pečeni svinjski sendvič sa kiselim orasima i čvarakom. Ili sendvič sa ribljim prstima. Ili jednu punjenu začinjenom tunom (puno kajena, paprike i češnjaka). Njegov sendvič sa slaninom "zaista dolazi na svoje kad ste malo pijani". Upute za čipku sa čipsom uključuju potrebu za jeftinim bijelim kruhom i da "sendvič treba preliti maslacem". Dok dođete do sendviča s bananama-dodajte slaninu, majonez i mango chutney-on manje čita kao kuharica, a više kao priručnik za samopomoć koji vas vodi do najboljeg života i snosi posljedice.

Šefica kuhinje Skye Gyngell iz restorana Spring veliki je obožavatelj. „On je vjerovatno pisac kuharstva kojem se najviše divim“, kaže ona. "On ima ovaj nevjerovatan dar za unošenje hrane i intimnosti u hranu."

‘Život nije prekratak’: punjene gljive

Volio sam kuhati kroz sve naslove navedene u ovoj kolumni do sada, ali bilo mi je posebno drago doći Prava brza hrana imati Najgela kraj sebe i znati da mi ništa neće dugo trebati i da, jer je sve tako labavo i besplatno, nisam mogao ništa zeznuti. Ja sam izdubio svinjske kotlete kroz mljeveni crni papar, ispržio ih na maslacu i odmaglio tavu s rakijom, crnim vinom i pilećim temeljcem prema uputama. Bilo je to 30 minuta do udarne ljupkosti. Zasladio sam jogurt sa začinima kako bih napravio umjetnu tandoori marinadu za pileće butine i pekao ih pakleno dok nisu postali intenzivni i sa korom. Ljubaznošću njegovog recepta za funghi ripieni otkrio sam da život nije bio prekratak za punjenje gljiva, ako to punjenje uključuje prženi luk, češnjak, slane inćune i prezle. Napunio sam zdjelu malinama (od smrznutih) prekrivši ih poplunom od mascarponea i šećera i gurnuo pod vrući roštilj. To će biti moj novi desert "zar nisam pametan i ne nosim li ga lagano".

"Ne bih želio pomisliti da ih iko ropski slijedi", kaže Nigel o svojim receptima, rano. I: "Moram priznati da rijetko išta mjerim." Opet, on ima standarde. On je veliki obožavatelj bijele platnene salvete i jednostavnog bijelog tanjura s rubom u koji će se zadržati umak. I nemojte ni pomisliti da umjetnički postavite vazu s cvijećem za stol. "Pa, baš sam takva, zar ne?" On kaže. Zaista jeste. Prava brza hrana dovelo je do mnogih stvari: gomile drugih knjiga, TV emisija, međunarodnog praćenja i, godinu dana nakon objavljivanja, ponude kolumne u ovim novinama. Ali najviše od svega dovelo je do mnogo radosnog kuhanja i jela.

Prava brza hrana Nigel Slatera izdaje Penguin. Kupite ga za 9,99 £ na guardianbookshop.com


Recepti za kuhanje iz prave brze hrane su poput Nigela Slatera pored sebe

Jednog dana 1992. telefon je zazvonio u Books for Cooks, čuvenoj specijaliziranoj knjižari u londonskom Notting Hillu. Odgovorila mu je Clarissa Dickson Wright, koja je još nekoliko godina kasnije stekla slavu kao jedna od debelih dama. Pozivatelj, koji se nije identificirao, želio je znati imaju li kopije novoobjavljenog Prava brza hrana od Nigel Slater "I Clarissa me je samo oduševila, rekla mi je da je to čudesna knjiga", kaže Nigel sada. "Tada sam znao da će sve biti u redu."

To je ukusan, iako poznat djelić potcjenjivanja od Nigela (ne očekujte novinarsku formalnost prezimena, on je i prijatelj i kolega). Prava brza hrana nije bio vodeći naslov za knjige o pingvinima. Objavljeno je s tako malim budžetom da nema fotografija. Pa ipak, to je brzo postalo tako veliki uspjeh da su prodajni predstavnici morali voziti unaokolo popunjavajući knjižare iz primjeraka koje su nosili u prtljažniku.

Skoro tri decenije kasnije, ostaje u štampi i sa dobrim razlogom. Neke kuharice daju uvid u specifičnu kulturu. Drugi se bave nizom tehnika i metoda. A onda postoji Prava brza hrana, koji je svijet upoznao s posebnim glasom, a senzibilitet prema beskrajno ohrabrujućem pristupu ne tupoj mehaniki kuhanja, već radostima dobrog jela i življenja. Talasa se sa dobrim ukusom. Najdželov dobar ukus. Prava brza hrana uvijek će biti uvršten u ovu seriju. Morali smo samo čekati da autor odmori tjedan dana od redovne kolumne. „To je tako velikodušna knjiga“, kaže kolega pisac hrane Nigella Lawson, „jer čitatelju omogućava da shvati o čemu se radi u kuhanju. Objašnjava koji su bitni, a koji ne. Od njega se može kuhati cijeli život. ”

Do ranih 90 -ih Nigel je radio kao stilist hrane za reklamne snimke. Kao sporedna stvar, za novoosnovani časopis pisao je ono što opisuje kao „recepte sa proširenim opisima slika“ Marie Claire. "Oni su bili više od toga", kaže Louise Haines, koja mu je postala urednica u Penguin Books -u i koja tri decenije kasnije ostaje njegova urednica. “Zatekao sam sebe kako izrezujem sve ove recepte za vlastitu upotrebu i odjednom sam pomislio da ovo nešto znači. Bilo je mnogo briljantnih ideja. ” Pisala mu je predlažući knjigu. "I odgovorio sam", kaže Najdžel, "hvala, ali mislim da ne bih mogao napisati knjigu."

'Bilo je 30 minuta do udarne ljupkosti': svinjski kotleti

Haines je istrajao. Sastali su se na ručku i razradili plan. "Željela je knjigu koja će joj omogućiti da bez velike trgovine dobije hranu na sto iz onoga što joj je bilo u ormarićima", prisjeća se Nigel. I tako se bacio na posao. Sada možemo uzeti zdravo za gotovo Nigelovu sposobnost pisanja kao da razgovara s nama i samo s nama. Taj glas se potpuno formirao ispočetka. „Dok mi je slao poglavlja, bilo mi je zadovoljstvo otkriti da je pisao kao anđeo“, kaže Haines.

U uvodu on najavljuje da ne sadrži "nikakve komplicirane procedure, nikakvo dvoumljenje oko zahvaćenih aranžmana na velikim pločama i efektne ukrase". Ima 350 -tak "recepata" koji se mogu brzo dovršiti, idealno u roku od 30 minuta. Tu sam riječ stavio obrnutim zarezima jer su mnogi od njih manje detaljne metode nego ideje o tome šta biste mogli učiniti stavljajući lijepe stvari u međusobno društvo.

„Intenzivno i sa korom“: tandoori pileća bedra

Raspoređen je po grupama sastojaka - jaja, meso ribe ili tjestenine, sir ili voće - sa prijedlozima ispod svakog. Čini se da su neki uključeni. Tu je crveni cipal s koromačem i Pernodom. Tu su divno naslovljeni "boranija, poširana jaja i ukrašeno lišće" i basnoslovno nazvani rumbledethumps, škotski pogled na colcannon. Ali Prava brza hrana je također jedna od najboljih zbirki nagađenih prijedloga sendviča ikada objavljenih. Ako se može jesti između dva komada hljeba ili gurnuti u šapicu, Najdžel je za to.

Uzmite hladni pečeni svinjski sendvič sa kiselim orasima i čvarakom. Ili sendvič sa ribljim prstima. Ili jednu napunjenu začinjenom tunom (puno kajenske paprike i češnjaka). Njegov sendvič sa slaninom "zaista dolazi na svoje kad ste malo pijani". Upute za čipku sa čipsom uključuju potrebu za jeftinim bijelim kruhom i da "sendvič treba preliti maslacem". Dok dođete do sendviča s bananama-dodajte slaninu, majonez i mango chutney-on manje čita kao kuharica, a više kao priručnik za samopomoć koji vas vodi do najboljeg života i snosi posljedice.

Šefica kuhinje Skye Gyngell iz restorana Spring veliki je obožavatelj. „On je vjerovatno pisac kuharstva kojem se najviše divim“, kaže ona. "On ima ovaj nevjerovatan dar za unošenje hrane i intimnosti u hranu."

‘Život nije prekratak’: punjene gljive

Volio sam kuhati kroz sve naslove navedene u ovoj kolumni do sada, ali bilo mi je posebno drago doći Prava brza hrana imati Najgela kraj sebe i znati da mi ništa neće dugo trebati i da, jer je sve tako labavo i besplatno, nisam mogao ništa zeznuti. Ja sam izdubio svinjske kotlete kroz mljeveni crni papar, ispržio ih na maslacu i odmaglio tavu s rakijom, crnim vinom i pilećim temeljcem prema uputama. Bilo je to 30 minuta do udarne ljupkosti. Zasladio sam jogurt sa začinima kako bih napravio umjetnu tandoori marinadu za pileće butine i pekao ih pakleno dok nisu postali intenzivni i sa korom. Ljubaznošću njegovog recepta za funghi ripieni otkrio sam da život nije bio prekratak za punjenje gljiva, ako to punjenje uključuje prženi luk, češnjak, slane inćune i prezle. Napunio sam zdjelu s malinama (od smrznutih) prekrivši ih poplunom od mascarponea i šećera i gurnuo pod vrući roštilj. Bit će to moj novi desert "zar nisam pametan i ne nosim li ga lagano".

„Ne bih volio da pomislim da ih iko ropski slijedi“, kaže Nigel o svojim receptima, rano. I: "Moram priznati da rijetko išta mjerim." Opet, on ima standarde. On je veliki obožavatelj bijele platnene salvete i jednostavnog bijelog tanjura s rubom u koji će se zadržati umak. I nemojte ni pomisliti da umjetnički postavite vazu s cvijećem za stol. "Pa, baš sam takva, zar ne?" On kaže. Zaista jeste. Prava brza hrana dovelo je do mnogih stvari: gomile drugih knjiga, TV emisija, međunarodnog praćenja i, godinu dana nakon objavljivanja, ponude kolumne u ovim novinama. Ali najviše od svega dovelo je do mnogo radosnog kuhanja i jela.

Prava brza hrana Nigel Slatera izdaje Penguin. Kupite ga za 9,99 £ na guardianbookshop.com


Recepti za kuhanje iz prave brze hrane su poput Nigela Slatera pored sebe

Jednog dana 1992. telefon je zazvonio u Books for Cooks, čuvenoj specijalizovanoj knjižari u londonskom Notting Hillu. Odgovorila mu je Clarissa Dickson Wright, koja je još nekoliko godina kasnije stekla slavu kao jedna od debelih dama. Pozivatelj, koji se nije identificirao, želio je znati imaju li kopije novoobjavljenog Prava brza hrana od Nigel Slater "I Clarissa me je samo oduševila, rekla mi je da je to čudesna knjiga", kaže Nigel sada. "Tada sam znao da će sve biti u redu."

To je ukusan, iako poznat djelić potcjenjivanja od Nigela (ne očekujte novinarsku formalnost prezimena, on je i prijatelj i kolega). Prava brza hrana nije bio vodeći naslov za knjige o pingvinima. Objavljeno je s tako malim budžetom da nema fotografija. Pa ipak, to je brzo postalo tako veliki uspjeh da su prodajni predstavnici morali voziti unaokolo popunjavajući knjižare iz primjeraka koje su nosili u prtljažniku.

Skoro tri decenije kasnije, ostaje u štampi i sa dobrim razlogom. Neke kuharice daju uvid u specifičnu kulturu. Drugi se bave nizom tehnika i metoda. A onda postoji Prava brza hrana, koji je svijet upoznao s posebnim glasom, a senzibilitet prema beskrajno ohrabrujućem pristupu ne tupoj mehaniki kuhanja, već radostima dobrog jela i življenja. Talasa se sa dobrim ukusom. Najdželov dobar ukus. Prava brza hrana uvijek će biti uvršten u ovu seriju. Morali smo samo čekati da autor odmori tjedan dana od redovne kolumne. "To je tako velikodušna knjiga", kaže kolega pisac hrane Nigella Lawson, "jer omogućava čitatelju da shvati o čemu se radi u kuhanju. Objašnjava koji su bitni, a koji ne. Od njega se može kuhati cijeli život. ”

Do ranih 90 -ih Nigel je radio kao stilist hrane za reklamne snimke. Kao sporedna stvar, za novoosnovani časopis pisao je ono što opisuje kao „recepte sa proširenim opisima slika“ Marie Claire. "Oni su bili više od toga", kaže Louise Haines, koja mu je postala urednica u Penguin Books -u i koja tri decenije kasnije ostaje njegova urednica. “Zatekao sam sebe kako izrezujem sve ove recepte za vlastitu upotrebu i odjednom sam pomislio da ovo nešto znači. Bilo je mnogo briljantnih ideja. ” Pisala mu je predlažući knjigu. "I odgovorio sam", kaže Nigel, "hvala, ali mislim da ne bih mogao napisati knjigu."

'Bilo je 30 minuta do udarne ljupkosti': svinjski kotleti

Haines je istrajao. Sastali su se na ručku i razradili plan. "Željela je knjigu koja će joj omogućiti da bez velike trgovine dobije hranu na sto iz onoga što joj je bilo u ormarićima", prisjeća se Nigel. I tako se bacio na posao. Sada možemo uzeti zdravo za gotovo Nigelovu sposobnost pisanja kao da razgovara s nama i samo s nama. Taj glas se potpuno formirao ispočetka. „Dok mi je slao poglavlja, bilo mi je zadovoljstvo otkriti da je pisao kao anđeo“, kaže Haines.

U uvodu on najavljuje da ne sadrži "nikakve komplicirane procedure, nema dvoumljenja oko zahvaćenih aranžmana na velikim pločama i efektnih ukrasa". Ima 350 -tak "recepata" koji se mogu brzo dovršiti, idealno u roku od 30 minuta. Tu sam riječ stavio obrnutim zarezima jer su mnogi od njih manje detaljne metode nego ideje o tome šta biste mogli učiniti stavljajući lijepe stvari u međusobno društvo.

„Intenzivno i sa korom“: tandoori pileća bedra

Raspoređen je po grupama sastojaka - jaja, meso ribe ili tjestenine, sir ili voće - sa prijedlozima ispod svakog. Čini se da su neki uključeni. Tu je crveni cipal s koromačem i Pernodom. Tu su divno naslovljeni "boranija, poširana jaja i otmjeno lišće" i basnoslovno nazvani rumbledethumps, škotski pogled na colcannon. Ali Prava brza hrana je također jedna od najboljih zbirki nagađenih prijedloga sendviča ikada objavljenih. Ako se može jesti između dva komada hljeba ili gurnuti u šapicu, Najdžel je za to.

Uzmite hladni pečeni svinjski sendvič sa kiselim orasima i čvarakom. Ili sendvič sa ribljim prstima. Ili jednu punjenu začinjenom tunom (puno kajena, paprike i češnjaka). Njegov sendvič sa slaninom "zaista dolazi na svoje kad ste malo pijani". Upute za čipku sa čipsom uključuju potrebu za jeftinim bijelim kruhom i da "sendvič treba preliti maslacem". Dok dođete do sendviča s bananama-dodajte slaninu, majonez i mango chutney-on manje čita kao kuharica, a više kao priručnik za samopomoć koji vas vodi do najboljeg života i snosi posljedice.

Šefica kuhinje Skye Gyngell iz restorana Spring veliki je obožavatelj. „On je vjerovatno pisac kuharstva kojem se najviše divim“, kaže ona. "On ima ovaj nevjerovatan dar za unošenje hrane i intimnosti u hranu."

‘Život nije prekratak’: punjene gljive

Volio sam kuhati kroz sve naslove navedene u ovoj kolumni do sada, ali bilo mi je posebno drago doći Prava brza hrana imati Najgela kraj sebe i znati da mi ništa neće dugo trebati i da, jer je sve tako labavo i besplatno, nisam mogao ništa zeznuti. Ja sam izdubio svinjske kotlete kroz mljeveni crni papar, ispržio ih na maslacu i odmaglio tavu s rakijom, crnim vinom i pilećim temeljcem prema uputama. Bilo je to 30 minuta do udarne ljupkosti. Zgrizla sam jogurt sa začinima kako bih napravila umjetnu tandoori marinadu za pileće butine i pakleno ih pekla dok nisu postala intenzivna i sa korom. Ljubaznošću njegovog recepta za funghi ripieni otkrio sam da život nije bio prekratak za punjenje gljiva, ako to punjenje uključuje prženi luk, češnjak, slane inćune i prezle. Napunio sam zdjelu malinama (od smrznutih) prekrivši ih poplunom od mascarponea i šećera i gurnuo pod vrući roštilj. To će biti moj novi desert "zar nisam pametan i ne nosim li ga lagano".

"Ne bih želio pomisliti da ih iko ropski slijedi", kaže Nigel o svojim receptima, rano. I: "Moram priznati da rijetko išta mjerim." Opet, on ima standarde. On je veliki obožavatelj bijele platnene salvete i jednostavnog bijelog tanjura s rubom u koji će se zadržati umak. I nemojte ni pomisliti da umjetnički postavite vazu s cvijećem za stol. "Pa, baš sam takva, zar ne?" On kaže. Zaista jeste. Prava brza hrana dovelo je do mnogih stvari: gomile drugih knjiga, TV emisija, međunarodnog praćenja i, godinu dana nakon objavljivanja, ponude kolumne u ovim novinama. Ali najviše od svega dovelo je do mnogo radosnog kuhanja i jela.

Prava brza hrana Nigel Slatera izdaje Penguin. Kupite ga za 9,99 £ na guardianbookshop.com


Recepti za kuhanje iz prave brze hrane su poput Nigela Slatera pored sebe

Jednog dana 1992. telefon je zazvonio u Books for Cooks, čuvenoj specijalizovanoj knjižari u londonskom Notting Hillu. Odgovorila mu je Clarissa Dickson Wright, koja je još nekoliko godina kasnije stekla slavu kao jedna od debelih dama. Pozivatelj, koji se nije identificirao, želio je znati imaju li kopije novoobjavljenog Prava brza hrana od Nigel Slater "I Clarissa me je samo oduševila, rekla mi je da je to čudesna knjiga", kaže Nigel sada. "Tada sam znao da će sve biti u redu."

To je ukusan, iako poznat djelić potcjenjivanja od Nigela (ne očekujte novinarsku formalnost prezimena, on je i prijatelj i kolega). Prava brza hrana nije bio vodeći naslov za knjige o pingvinima. Objavljeno je s tako malim budžetom da nema fotografija. Pa ipak, to je brzo postalo tako veliki uspjeh da su prodajni predstavnici morali voziti unaokolo popunjavajući knjižare iz primjeraka koje su nosili u prtljažniku.

Skoro tri decenije kasnije, ostaje u štampi i sa dobrim razlogom. Neke kuharice daju uvid u specifičnu kulturu. Drugi se bave nizom tehnika i metoda. A onda postoji Prava brza hrana, koji je svijet upoznao s posebnim glasom, a senzibilitet prema beskrajno ohrabrujućem pristupu ne tupoj mehaniki kuhanja, već radostima dobrog jela i življenja. Talasa se sa dobrim ukusom. Najdželov dobar ukus. Prava brza hrana uvijek će biti uvršten u ovu seriju. Morali smo samo čekati da autor odmori tjedan dana od redovne kolumne. "To je tako velikodušna knjiga", kaže kolega pisac hrane Nigella Lawson, "jer omogućava čitatelju da shvati o čemu se radi u kuhanju. Objašnjava koji su bitni, a koji ne. Od njega se može kuhati cijeli život. ”

Do ranih 90 -ih Nigel je radio kao stilist hrane za reklamne snimke. Kao sporedna stvar, za novoosnovani časopis pisao je ono što opisuje kao „recepte sa proširenim opisima slika“ Marie Claire. "Oni su bili više od toga", kaže Louise Haines, koja mu je postala urednica u Penguin Books -u i koja tri decenije kasnije ostaje njegova urednica. “Zatekao sam sebe kako izrezujem sve ove recepte za vlastitu upotrebu i odjednom sam pomislio da ovo nešto znači. Bilo je mnogo briljantnih ideja. ” Pisala mu je predlažući knjigu. "I odgovorio sam", kaže Najdžel, "hvala, ali mislim da ne bih mogao napisati knjigu."

'Bilo je 30 minuta do udarne ljupkosti': svinjski kotleti

Haines je istrajao. Sastali su se na ručku i razradili plan. "Željela je knjigu koja će joj omogućiti da bez velike trgovine dobije hranu na sto iz onoga što joj je bilo u ormarićima", prisjeća se Nigel. I tako se bacio na posao. Sada možemo uzeti zdravo za gotovo Nigelovu sposobnost pisanja kao da razgovara s nama i samo s nama. Taj glas se potpuno formirao ispočetka. „Dok mi je slao poglavlja, bilo mi je zadovoljstvo otkriti da je pisao kao anđeo“, kaže Haines.

U uvodu on najavljuje da ne sadrži "nikakve komplicirane procedure, nema dvoumljenja oko zahvaćenih aranžmana na velikim pločama i efektnih ukrasa". Ima 350 -tak "recepata" koji se mogu brzo dovršiti, idealno u roku od 30 minuta. Tu sam riječ stavio obrnutim zarezima jer su mnogi od njih manje detaljne metode nego ideje o tome šta biste mogli učiniti stavljajući lijepe stvari u međusobno društvo.

„Intenzivno i sa korom“: tandoori pileća bedra

Raspoređen je po grupama sastojaka - jaja, meso ribe ili tjestenine, sir ili voće - sa prijedlozima ispod svakog. Čini se da su neki uključeni. Tu je crveni cipal s koromačem i Pernodom. Tu su ljupko naslovljeni "boranija, poširana jaja i ukrašeno lišće" i basnoslovno nazvani rumbledethumps, škotski pogled na colcannon. Ali Prava brza hrana je također jedna od najboljih zbirki nagađenih prijedloga sendviča ikada objavljenih. Ako se može jesti između dva komada hljeba ili gurnuti u šapicu, Najdžel je za to.

Uzmite hladni pečeni svinjski sendvič sa kiselim orasima i čvarakom. Ili sendvič sa ribljim prstima. Ili jednu punjenu začinjenom tunom (puno kajena, paprike i češnjaka). Njegov sendvič sa slaninom "zaista dolazi na svoje kad ste malo pijani". Upute za čipku sa čipsom uključuju potrebu za jeftinim bijelim kruhom i da "sendvič treba preliti maslacem". Dok dođete do sendviča s bananama-dodajte slaninu, majonez i mango chutney-on manje čita kao kuharica, a više kao priručnik za samopomoć koji vas vodi do najboljeg života i snosi posljedice.

Šefica kuhinje Skye Gyngell iz restorana Spring veliki je obožavatelj. „On je vjerovatno pisac kuharstva kojem se najviše divim“, kaže ona. "On ima ovaj nevjerovatan dar za unošenje hrane i intimnosti u hranu."

‘Život nije prekratak’: punjene gljive

Volio sam kuhati kroz sve naslove navedene u ovoj kolumni do sada, ali bilo mi je posebno drago doći Prava brza hrana imati Najgela kraj sebe i znati da mi ništa neće dugo trebati i da, jer je sve tako labavo i besplatno, nisam mogao ništa zeznuti. Ja sam izdubio svinjske kotlete kroz mljeveni crni papar, ispržio ih na maslacu i odmaglio tavu s rakijom, crnim vinom i pilećim temeljcem prema uputama. Bilo je to 30 minuta do udarne ljupkosti. Zasladio sam jogurt sa začinima kako bih napravio umjetnu tandoori marinadu za pileće butine i pekao ih pakleno dok nisu postali intenzivni i sa korom. Ljubaznošću njegovog recepta za funghi ripieni otkrio sam da život nije bio prekratak za punjenje gljiva, ako to punjenje uključuje prženi luk, češnjak, slane inćune i prezle. Napunio sam zdjelu malinama (od smrznutih) prekrivši ih poplunom od mascarponea i šećera i gurnuo pod vrući roštilj. To će biti moj novi desert "zar nisam pametan i ne nosim li ga lagano".

"Ne bih želio pomisliti da ih iko ropski slijedi", kaže Nigel o svojim receptima, rano. I: "Moram priznati da rijetko išta mjerim." Opet, on ima standarde. On je veliki obožavatelj bijele platnene salvete i jednostavnog bijelog tanjura s rubom u koji će se zadržati umak. I nemojte ni pomisliti da umjetnički postavite vazu s cvijećem za stol. "Pa, baš sam takva, zar ne?" On kaže. Zaista jeste. Prava brza hrana dovelo je do mnogih stvari: gomile drugih knjiga, TV emisija, međunarodnog praćenja i, godinu dana nakon objavljivanja, ponude kolumne u ovim novinama. Ali najviše od svega dovelo je do mnogo radosnog kuhanja i jela.

Prava brza hrana Nigel Slatera izdaje Penguin. Kupite ga za 9,99 £ na guardianbookshop.com


Recepti za kuhanje iz prave brze hrane su poput Nigela Slatera pored sebe

Jednog dana 1992. telefon je zazvonio u Books for Cooks, čuvenoj specijaliziranoj knjižari u londonskom Notting Hillu. Odgovorila mu je Clarissa Dickson Wright, koja je još nekoliko godina kasnije stekla slavu kao jedna od debelih dama. Pozivatelj, koji se nije identificirao, želio je znati imaju li kopije novoobjavljenog Prava brza hrana od Nigel Slater "I Clarissa me je samo oduševila, rekla mi je da je to čudesna knjiga", kaže Nigel sada. "Tada sam znao da će sve biti u redu."

To je ukusan, iako poznat djelić potcjenjivanja od Nigela (ne očekujte novinarsku formalnost prezimena, on je i prijatelj i kolega). Prava brza hrana nije bio vodeći naslov za knjige o pingvinima. Objavljeno je s tako malim budžetom da nema fotografija. Pa ipak, to je brzo postalo tako veliki uspjeh da su prodajni predstavnici morali voziti unaokolo popunjavajući knjižare iz primjeraka koje su nosili u prtljažniku.

Skoro tri decenije kasnije, ostaje u štampi i sa dobrim razlogom. Neke kuharice daju uvid u specifičnu kulturu. Drugi se bave nizom tehnika i metoda. A onda postoji Prava brza hrana, koji je svijet upoznao s posebnim glasom, a senzibilitet prema beskrajno ohrabrujućem pristupu ne tupoj mehaniki kuhanja, već radostima dobrog jela i življenja. Talasa se sa dobrim ukusom. Najdželov dobar ukus. Prava brza hrana uvijek će biti uvršten u ovu seriju. Morali smo samo čekati da autor odmori tjedan dana od redovne kolumne. „To je tako velikodušna knjiga“, kaže kolega pisac hrane Nigella Lawson, „jer čitatelju omogućava da shvati o čemu se radi u kuhanju. Objašnjava koji su bitni, a koji ne. Od njega se može kuhati cijeli život. ”

Do ranih 90 -ih Nigel je radio kao stilist hrane za reklamne snimke. Kao sporedna stvar, za novoosnovani časopis pisao je ono što opisuje kao „recepte sa proširenim natpisima sa slikama“ Marie Claire. "Oni su bili više od toga", kaže Louise Haines, koja mu je postala urednica u Penguin Books -u i koja tri decenije kasnije ostaje njegova urednica. “Zatekao sam sebe kako izrezujem sve ove recepte za vlastitu upotrebu i odjednom sam pomislio da ovo nešto znači. Bilo je mnogo briljantnih ideja. ” Pisala mu je predlažući knjigu. "I odgovorio sam", kaže Najdžel, "hvala, ali mislim da ne bih mogao napisati knjigu."

'Bilo je 30 minuta do udarne ljupkosti': svinjski kotleti

Haines je istrajao. Sastali su se na ručku i razradili plan. "Željela je knjigu koja će joj omogućiti da bez velike trgovine dobije hranu na sto iz onoga što joj je bilo u ormarićima", prisjeća se Nigel. I tako se bacio na posao. Sada možemo uzeti zdravo za gotovo Nigelovu sposobnost pisanja kao da razgovara s nama i samo s nama. Taj glas se potpuno formirao ispočetka. „Dok mi je slao poglavlja, bilo mi je zadovoljstvo otkriti da je pisao kao anđeo“, kaže Haines.

In the introduction he announces it contains “no complicated procedures, no dithering around with affected arrangements on oversized plates and no effete garnishes”. It has 350 or so “recipes” that can be completed quickly, ideally within 30 minutes. I put that word in inverted commas because many of them are less detailed methods than ideas for what you could do by putting nice things in each other’s company.

‘Intense and crusted’: tandoori chicken thighs

It is arranged by groups of ingredients – eggs, fish or pasta meat, cheese or fruit – with suggestions under each one. Some seem involved. There’s red mullet with fennel and Pernod. There’s the delightfully titled “green beans, poached eggs and fancy leaves” and the fabulously named rumbledethumps, a Scottish take on colcannon. Ali Real Fast Food is also one of the finest collections of gussied-up sandwich suggestions ever published. If it can be eaten between two pieces of bread or shoved inside a bap, Nigel is all for it.

Have a cold roast pork sandwich with pickled walnuts and crackling. Or a fishfinger sandwich. Or one filled with spiced tuna (lots of cayenne, paprika and garlic). His bacon sandwich “only really comes into its own when you are slightly drunk”. The instructions for a chip butty include the need for cheap white bread and that “the sandwich should drip with butter”. By the time you get to the banana sandwich – add bacon, mayo and mango chutney – it reads less like a cookbook, and more like a self-help manual directing you to live your best life and sod the consequences.

The chef Skye Gyngell of the restaurant Spring is a huge fan. “He is probably the cookery writer I most admire,” she says. “He has this incredible gift for breathing life and intimacy into food.”

‘Life is not too short’: stuffed mushrooms

I have loved cooking my way through all the titles featured in this column so far, but it was a particular joy to reach Real Fast Food to have Nigel at my side and know both that nothing would take me very long and that, because it’s all so loose and free, I couldn’t screw anything up. I dredged pork chops through crushed black pepper, fried them in butter and deglazed the pan with brandy, red wine and chicken stock as directed. It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness. I blitzed yoghurt with spices to make a faux tandoori marinade for chicken thighs and roasted the hell out of them until they became intense and crusted. Courtesy of his recipe for funghi ripieni I discovered life was not too short to stuff a mushroom, if that stuffing involves fried onions, garlic, salted anchovies and breadcrumbs. I filled a bowl with raspberries (from frozen) covered them with a duvet of mascarpone and caster sugar and shoved it under a hot grill. It will be my new “aren’t I clever and don’t I wear it lightly” dinner party dessert.

“I should hate to think of anyone following them slavishly,” Nigel says of his recipes, early on. And: “I have to admit to rarely measuring anything.” Then again, he has standards. He’s a big fan of a white linen napkin and a simple white plate with a rim to keep the sauce in. And don’t even think of arranging a vase of flowers for the table too artfully. “Well, that’s just what I’m like, isn’t it?” On kaže. It is indeed. Real Fast Food led to many things: a bunch of other books, TV shows, an international following, and, a year after publication, the offer of a column in this newspaper. But most of all it has led to a lot of joyous cooking and eating.

Real Fast Food by Nigel Slater is published by Penguin. Buy it for £9.99 at guardianbookshop.com


Cooking recipes from Real Fast Food is like having Nigel Slater by your side

O ne day in 1992 the phone rang at Books for Cooks, the famed specialist bookshop in London’s Notting Hill. It was answered by Clarissa Dickson Wright, then still a few years off finding fame as one of the Fat Ladies. The caller, who didn’t identify himself, wanted to know whether they had copies of the newly published Real Fast Food od Nigel Slater “And Clarissa just enthused down the phone at me, told me it was a marvellous book,” Nigel says now. “That’s when I knew it was all going to be all right.”

It’s a delicious, if familiar slice of understatement from Nigel (don’t expect the journalist’s formality of surnames here he’s both friend and colleague). Real Fast Food was not a lead title for Penguin books. It was published on such a tight budget it has no photographs. And yet it swiftly became such a massive success that sales reps had to drive around restocking bookshops from copies they carried in the boot.

Almost three decades on, it remains in print and with good reason. Some cookbooks give an insight into a specific culture. Others drill down on a set of techniques and methods. And then there’s Real Fast Food, which introduced the world to a particular voice and sensibility to an endlessly encouraging approach not to the blunt mechanics of cooking, but to the joys of eating and living well. It ripples with good taste. Nigel’s good taste. Real Fast Food was always going to be included in this series. We just had to wait for the author to take a week off from his regular column. “It’s such a generous book,” says fellow food writer Nigella Lawson, “because it allows the reader to understand what cooking is all about. He explains which bits matter and which bits don’t. You could cook from it for a lifetime.”

By the early 90s Nigel was working as a food stylist for advertising shoots. As a sideline he was writing what he describes as “extended picture caption recipes” for the newly launched magazine Marie Claire. “They were more than that,” says Louise Haines, who became his editor at Penguin Books and who, three decades later, remains his editor. “I found myself cutting out all these recipes for my own use and I suddenly thought this means something. There were lots of brilliant ideas.” She wrote to him suggesting a book. “And I wrote back,” Nigel says, “saying thank you, but I don’t think I could write a book.”

‘It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness’: pork chops

Haines persevered. They met for lunch and thrashed out a plan. “She wanted a book that would enable her to get food on the table from what was in her cupboards without a big shop,” Nigel recalls. And so he set to work. We may now take for granted Nigel’s ability to write as if he is talking to us and only to us. That voice was fully formed from the off. “As he sent me chapters it was a delight to discover that he wrote like an angel,” Haines says.

In the introduction he announces it contains “no complicated procedures, no dithering around with affected arrangements on oversized plates and no effete garnishes”. It has 350 or so “recipes” that can be completed quickly, ideally within 30 minutes. I put that word in inverted commas because many of them are less detailed methods than ideas for what you could do by putting nice things in each other’s company.

‘Intense and crusted’: tandoori chicken thighs

It is arranged by groups of ingredients – eggs, fish or pasta meat, cheese or fruit – with suggestions under each one. Some seem involved. There’s red mullet with fennel and Pernod. There’s the delightfully titled “green beans, poached eggs and fancy leaves” and the fabulously named rumbledethumps, a Scottish take on colcannon. Ali Real Fast Food is also one of the finest collections of gussied-up sandwich suggestions ever published. If it can be eaten between two pieces of bread or shoved inside a bap, Nigel is all for it.

Have a cold roast pork sandwich with pickled walnuts and crackling. Or a fishfinger sandwich. Or one filled with spiced tuna (lots of cayenne, paprika and garlic). His bacon sandwich “only really comes into its own when you are slightly drunk”. The instructions for a chip butty include the need for cheap white bread and that “the sandwich should drip with butter”. By the time you get to the banana sandwich – add bacon, mayo and mango chutney – it reads less like a cookbook, and more like a self-help manual directing you to live your best life and sod the consequences.

The chef Skye Gyngell of the restaurant Spring is a huge fan. “He is probably the cookery writer I most admire,” she says. “He has this incredible gift for breathing life and intimacy into food.”

‘Life is not too short’: stuffed mushrooms

I have loved cooking my way through all the titles featured in this column so far, but it was a particular joy to reach Real Fast Food to have Nigel at my side and know both that nothing would take me very long and that, because it’s all so loose and free, I couldn’t screw anything up. I dredged pork chops through crushed black pepper, fried them in butter and deglazed the pan with brandy, red wine and chicken stock as directed. It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness. I blitzed yoghurt with spices to make a faux tandoori marinade for chicken thighs and roasted the hell out of them until they became intense and crusted. Courtesy of his recipe for funghi ripieni I discovered life was not too short to stuff a mushroom, if that stuffing involves fried onions, garlic, salted anchovies and breadcrumbs. I filled a bowl with raspberries (from frozen) covered them with a duvet of mascarpone and caster sugar and shoved it under a hot grill. It will be my new “aren’t I clever and don’t I wear it lightly” dinner party dessert.

“I should hate to think of anyone following them slavishly,” Nigel says of his recipes, early on. And: “I have to admit to rarely measuring anything.” Then again, he has standards. He’s a big fan of a white linen napkin and a simple white plate with a rim to keep the sauce in. And don’t even think of arranging a vase of flowers for the table too artfully. “Well, that’s just what I’m like, isn’t it?” On kaže. It is indeed. Real Fast Food led to many things: a bunch of other books, TV shows, an international following, and, a year after publication, the offer of a column in this newspaper. But most of all it has led to a lot of joyous cooking and eating.

Real Fast Food by Nigel Slater is published by Penguin. Buy it for £9.99 at guardianbookshop.com


Cooking recipes from Real Fast Food is like having Nigel Slater by your side

O ne day in 1992 the phone rang at Books for Cooks, the famed specialist bookshop in London’s Notting Hill. It was answered by Clarissa Dickson Wright, then still a few years off finding fame as one of the Fat Ladies. The caller, who didn’t identify himself, wanted to know whether they had copies of the newly published Real Fast Food od Nigel Slater “And Clarissa just enthused down the phone at me, told me it was a marvellous book,” Nigel says now. “That’s when I knew it was all going to be all right.”

It’s a delicious, if familiar slice of understatement from Nigel (don’t expect the journalist’s formality of surnames here he’s both friend and colleague). Real Fast Food was not a lead title for Penguin books. It was published on such a tight budget it has no photographs. And yet it swiftly became such a massive success that sales reps had to drive around restocking bookshops from copies they carried in the boot.

Almost three decades on, it remains in print and with good reason. Some cookbooks give an insight into a specific culture. Others drill down on a set of techniques and methods. And then there’s Real Fast Food, which introduced the world to a particular voice and sensibility to an endlessly encouraging approach not to the blunt mechanics of cooking, but to the joys of eating and living well. It ripples with good taste. Nigel’s good taste. Real Fast Food was always going to be included in this series. We just had to wait for the author to take a week off from his regular column. “It’s such a generous book,” says fellow food writer Nigella Lawson, “because it allows the reader to understand what cooking is all about. He explains which bits matter and which bits don’t. You could cook from it for a lifetime.”

By the early 90s Nigel was working as a food stylist for advertising shoots. As a sideline he was writing what he describes as “extended picture caption recipes” for the newly launched magazine Marie Claire. “They were more than that,” says Louise Haines, who became his editor at Penguin Books and who, three decades later, remains his editor. “I found myself cutting out all these recipes for my own use and I suddenly thought this means something. There were lots of brilliant ideas.” She wrote to him suggesting a book. “And I wrote back,” Nigel says, “saying thank you, but I don’t think I could write a book.”

‘It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness’: pork chops

Haines persevered. They met for lunch and thrashed out a plan. “She wanted a book that would enable her to get food on the table from what was in her cupboards without a big shop,” Nigel recalls. And so he set to work. We may now take for granted Nigel’s ability to write as if he is talking to us and only to us. That voice was fully formed from the off. “As he sent me chapters it was a delight to discover that he wrote like an angel,” Haines says.

In the introduction he announces it contains “no complicated procedures, no dithering around with affected arrangements on oversized plates and no effete garnishes”. It has 350 or so “recipes” that can be completed quickly, ideally within 30 minutes. I put that word in inverted commas because many of them are less detailed methods than ideas for what you could do by putting nice things in each other’s company.

‘Intense and crusted’: tandoori chicken thighs

It is arranged by groups of ingredients – eggs, fish or pasta meat, cheese or fruit – with suggestions under each one. Some seem involved. There’s red mullet with fennel and Pernod. There’s the delightfully titled “green beans, poached eggs and fancy leaves” and the fabulously named rumbledethumps, a Scottish take on colcannon. Ali Real Fast Food is also one of the finest collections of gussied-up sandwich suggestions ever published. If it can be eaten between two pieces of bread or shoved inside a bap, Nigel is all for it.

Have a cold roast pork sandwich with pickled walnuts and crackling. Or a fishfinger sandwich. Or one filled with spiced tuna (lots of cayenne, paprika and garlic). His bacon sandwich “only really comes into its own when you are slightly drunk”. The instructions for a chip butty include the need for cheap white bread and that “the sandwich should drip with butter”. By the time you get to the banana sandwich – add bacon, mayo and mango chutney – it reads less like a cookbook, and more like a self-help manual directing you to live your best life and sod the consequences.

The chef Skye Gyngell of the restaurant Spring is a huge fan. “He is probably the cookery writer I most admire,” she says. “He has this incredible gift for breathing life and intimacy into food.”

‘Life is not too short’: stuffed mushrooms

I have loved cooking my way through all the titles featured in this column so far, but it was a particular joy to reach Real Fast Food to have Nigel at my side and know both that nothing would take me very long and that, because it’s all so loose and free, I couldn’t screw anything up. I dredged pork chops through crushed black pepper, fried them in butter and deglazed the pan with brandy, red wine and chicken stock as directed. It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness. I blitzed yoghurt with spices to make a faux tandoori marinade for chicken thighs and roasted the hell out of them until they became intense and crusted. Courtesy of his recipe for funghi ripieni I discovered life was not too short to stuff a mushroom, if that stuffing involves fried onions, garlic, salted anchovies and breadcrumbs. I filled a bowl with raspberries (from frozen) covered them with a duvet of mascarpone and caster sugar and shoved it under a hot grill. It will be my new “aren’t I clever and don’t I wear it lightly” dinner party dessert.

“I should hate to think of anyone following them slavishly,” Nigel says of his recipes, early on. And: “I have to admit to rarely measuring anything.” Then again, he has standards. He’s a big fan of a white linen napkin and a simple white plate with a rim to keep the sauce in. And don’t even think of arranging a vase of flowers for the table too artfully. “Well, that’s just what I’m like, isn’t it?” On kaže. It is indeed. Real Fast Food led to many things: a bunch of other books, TV shows, an international following, and, a year after publication, the offer of a column in this newspaper. But most of all it has led to a lot of joyous cooking and eating.

Real Fast Food by Nigel Slater is published by Penguin. Buy it for £9.99 at guardianbookshop.com


Cooking recipes from Real Fast Food is like having Nigel Slater by your side

O ne day in 1992 the phone rang at Books for Cooks, the famed specialist bookshop in London’s Notting Hill. It was answered by Clarissa Dickson Wright, then still a few years off finding fame as one of the Fat Ladies. The caller, who didn’t identify himself, wanted to know whether they had copies of the newly published Real Fast Food od Nigel Slater “And Clarissa just enthused down the phone at me, told me it was a marvellous book,” Nigel says now. “That’s when I knew it was all going to be all right.”

It’s a delicious, if familiar slice of understatement from Nigel (don’t expect the journalist’s formality of surnames here he’s both friend and colleague). Real Fast Food was not a lead title for Penguin books. It was published on such a tight budget it has no photographs. And yet it swiftly became such a massive success that sales reps had to drive around restocking bookshops from copies they carried in the boot.

Almost three decades on, it remains in print and with good reason. Some cookbooks give an insight into a specific culture. Others drill down on a set of techniques and methods. And then there’s Real Fast Food, which introduced the world to a particular voice and sensibility to an endlessly encouraging approach not to the blunt mechanics of cooking, but to the joys of eating and living well. It ripples with good taste. Nigel’s good taste. Real Fast Food was always going to be included in this series. We just had to wait for the author to take a week off from his regular column. “It’s such a generous book,” says fellow food writer Nigella Lawson, “because it allows the reader to understand what cooking is all about. He explains which bits matter and which bits don’t. You could cook from it for a lifetime.”

By the early 90s Nigel was working as a food stylist for advertising shoots. As a sideline he was writing what he describes as “extended picture caption recipes” for the newly launched magazine Marie Claire. “They were more than that,” says Louise Haines, who became his editor at Penguin Books and who, three decades later, remains his editor. “I found myself cutting out all these recipes for my own use and I suddenly thought this means something. There were lots of brilliant ideas.” She wrote to him suggesting a book. “And I wrote back,” Nigel says, “saying thank you, but I don’t think I could write a book.”

‘It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness’: pork chops

Haines persevered. They met for lunch and thrashed out a plan. “She wanted a book that would enable her to get food on the table from what was in her cupboards without a big shop,” Nigel recalls. And so he set to work. We may now take for granted Nigel’s ability to write as if he is talking to us and only to us. That voice was fully formed from the off. “As he sent me chapters it was a delight to discover that he wrote like an angel,” Haines says.

In the introduction he announces it contains “no complicated procedures, no dithering around with affected arrangements on oversized plates and no effete garnishes”. It has 350 or so “recipes” that can be completed quickly, ideally within 30 minutes. I put that word in inverted commas because many of them are less detailed methods than ideas for what you could do by putting nice things in each other’s company.

‘Intense and crusted’: tandoori chicken thighs

It is arranged by groups of ingredients – eggs, fish or pasta meat, cheese or fruit – with suggestions under each one. Some seem involved. There’s red mullet with fennel and Pernod. There’s the delightfully titled “green beans, poached eggs and fancy leaves” and the fabulously named rumbledethumps, a Scottish take on colcannon. Ali Real Fast Food is also one of the finest collections of gussied-up sandwich suggestions ever published. If it can be eaten between two pieces of bread or shoved inside a bap, Nigel is all for it.

Have a cold roast pork sandwich with pickled walnuts and crackling. Or a fishfinger sandwich. Or one filled with spiced tuna (lots of cayenne, paprika and garlic). His bacon sandwich “only really comes into its own when you are slightly drunk”. The instructions for a chip butty include the need for cheap white bread and that “the sandwich should drip with butter”. By the time you get to the banana sandwich – add bacon, mayo and mango chutney – it reads less like a cookbook, and more like a self-help manual directing you to live your best life and sod the consequences.

The chef Skye Gyngell of the restaurant Spring is a huge fan. “He is probably the cookery writer I most admire,” she says. “He has this incredible gift for breathing life and intimacy into food.”

‘Life is not too short’: stuffed mushrooms

I have loved cooking my way through all the titles featured in this column so far, but it was a particular joy to reach Real Fast Food to have Nigel at my side and know both that nothing would take me very long and that, because it’s all so loose and free, I couldn’t screw anything up. I dredged pork chops through crushed black pepper, fried them in butter and deglazed the pan with brandy, red wine and chicken stock as directed. It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness. I blitzed yoghurt with spices to make a faux tandoori marinade for chicken thighs and roasted the hell out of them until they became intense and crusted. Courtesy of his recipe for funghi ripieni I discovered life was not too short to stuff a mushroom, if that stuffing involves fried onions, garlic, salted anchovies and breadcrumbs. I filled a bowl with raspberries (from frozen) covered them with a duvet of mascarpone and caster sugar and shoved it under a hot grill. It will be my new “aren’t I clever and don’t I wear it lightly” dinner party dessert.

“I should hate to think of anyone following them slavishly,” Nigel says of his recipes, early on. And: “I have to admit to rarely measuring anything.” Then again, he has standards. He’s a big fan of a white linen napkin and a simple white plate with a rim to keep the sauce in. And don’t even think of arranging a vase of flowers for the table too artfully. “Well, that’s just what I’m like, isn’t it?” On kaže. It is indeed. Real Fast Food led to many things: a bunch of other books, TV shows, an international following, and, a year after publication, the offer of a column in this newspaper. But most of all it has led to a lot of joyous cooking and eating.

Real Fast Food by Nigel Slater is published by Penguin. Buy it for £9.99 at guardianbookshop.com


Cooking recipes from Real Fast Food is like having Nigel Slater by your side

O ne day in 1992 the phone rang at Books for Cooks, the famed specialist bookshop in London’s Notting Hill. It was answered by Clarissa Dickson Wright, then still a few years off finding fame as one of the Fat Ladies. The caller, who didn’t identify himself, wanted to know whether they had copies of the newly published Real Fast Food od Nigel Slater “And Clarissa just enthused down the phone at me, told me it was a marvellous book,” Nigel says now. “That’s when I knew it was all going to be all right.”

It’s a delicious, if familiar slice of understatement from Nigel (don’t expect the journalist’s formality of surnames here he’s both friend and colleague). Real Fast Food was not a lead title for Penguin books. It was published on such a tight budget it has no photographs. And yet it swiftly became such a massive success that sales reps had to drive around restocking bookshops from copies they carried in the boot.

Almost three decades on, it remains in print and with good reason. Some cookbooks give an insight into a specific culture. Others drill down on a set of techniques and methods. And then there’s Real Fast Food, which introduced the world to a particular voice and sensibility to an endlessly encouraging approach not to the blunt mechanics of cooking, but to the joys of eating and living well. It ripples with good taste. Nigel’s good taste. Real Fast Food was always going to be included in this series. We just had to wait for the author to take a week off from his regular column. “It’s such a generous book,” says fellow food writer Nigella Lawson, “because it allows the reader to understand what cooking is all about. He explains which bits matter and which bits don’t. You could cook from it for a lifetime.”

By the early 90s Nigel was working as a food stylist for advertising shoots. As a sideline he was writing what he describes as “extended picture caption recipes” for the newly launched magazine Marie Claire. “They were more than that,” says Louise Haines, who became his editor at Penguin Books and who, three decades later, remains his editor. “I found myself cutting out all these recipes for my own use and I suddenly thought this means something. There were lots of brilliant ideas.” She wrote to him suggesting a book. “And I wrote back,” Nigel says, “saying thank you, but I don’t think I could write a book.”

‘It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness’: pork chops

Haines persevered. They met for lunch and thrashed out a plan. “She wanted a book that would enable her to get food on the table from what was in her cupboards without a big shop,” Nigel recalls. And so he set to work. We may now take for granted Nigel’s ability to write as if he is talking to us and only to us. That voice was fully formed from the off. “As he sent me chapters it was a delight to discover that he wrote like an angel,” Haines says.

In the introduction he announces it contains “no complicated procedures, no dithering around with affected arrangements on oversized plates and no effete garnishes”. It has 350 or so “recipes” that can be completed quickly, ideally within 30 minutes. I put that word in inverted commas because many of them are less detailed methods than ideas for what you could do by putting nice things in each other’s company.

‘Intense and crusted’: tandoori chicken thighs

It is arranged by groups of ingredients – eggs, fish or pasta meat, cheese or fruit – with suggestions under each one. Some seem involved. There’s red mullet with fennel and Pernod. There’s the delightfully titled “green beans, poached eggs and fancy leaves” and the fabulously named rumbledethumps, a Scottish take on colcannon. Ali Real Fast Food is also one of the finest collections of gussied-up sandwich suggestions ever published. If it can be eaten between two pieces of bread or shoved inside a bap, Nigel is all for it.

Have a cold roast pork sandwich with pickled walnuts and crackling. Or a fishfinger sandwich. Or one filled with spiced tuna (lots of cayenne, paprika and garlic). His bacon sandwich “only really comes into its own when you are slightly drunk”. The instructions for a chip butty include the need for cheap white bread and that “the sandwich should drip with butter”. By the time you get to the banana sandwich – add bacon, mayo and mango chutney – it reads less like a cookbook, and more like a self-help manual directing you to live your best life and sod the consequences.

The chef Skye Gyngell of the restaurant Spring is a huge fan. “He is probably the cookery writer I most admire,” she says. “He has this incredible gift for breathing life and intimacy into food.”

‘Life is not too short’: stuffed mushrooms

I have loved cooking my way through all the titles featured in this column so far, but it was a particular joy to reach Real Fast Food to have Nigel at my side and know both that nothing would take me very long and that, because it’s all so loose and free, I couldn’t screw anything up. I dredged pork chops through crushed black pepper, fried them in butter and deglazed the pan with brandy, red wine and chicken stock as directed. It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness. I blitzed yoghurt with spices to make a faux tandoori marinade for chicken thighs and roasted the hell out of them until they became intense and crusted. Courtesy of his recipe for funghi ripieni I discovered life was not too short to stuff a mushroom, if that stuffing involves fried onions, garlic, salted anchovies and breadcrumbs. I filled a bowl with raspberries (from frozen) covered them with a duvet of mascarpone and caster sugar and shoved it under a hot grill. It will be my new “aren’t I clever and don’t I wear it lightly” dinner party dessert.

“I should hate to think of anyone following them slavishly,” Nigel says of his recipes, early on. And: “I have to admit to rarely measuring anything.” Then again, he has standards. He’s a big fan of a white linen napkin and a simple white plate with a rim to keep the sauce in. And don’t even think of arranging a vase of flowers for the table too artfully. “Well, that’s just what I’m like, isn’t it?” On kaže. It is indeed. Real Fast Food led to many things: a bunch of other books, TV shows, an international following, and, a year after publication, the offer of a column in this newspaper. But most of all it has led to a lot of joyous cooking and eating.

Real Fast Food by Nigel Slater is published by Penguin. Buy it for £9.99 at guardianbookshop.com


Cooking recipes from Real Fast Food is like having Nigel Slater by your side

O ne day in 1992 the phone rang at Books for Cooks, the famed specialist bookshop in London’s Notting Hill. It was answered by Clarissa Dickson Wright, then still a few years off finding fame as one of the Fat Ladies. The caller, who didn’t identify himself, wanted to know whether they had copies of the newly published Real Fast Food od Nigel Slater “And Clarissa just enthused down the phone at me, told me it was a marvellous book,” Nigel says now. “That’s when I knew it was all going to be all right.”

It’s a delicious, if familiar slice of understatement from Nigel (don’t expect the journalist’s formality of surnames here he’s both friend and colleague). Real Fast Food was not a lead title for Penguin books. It was published on such a tight budget it has no photographs. And yet it swiftly became such a massive success that sales reps had to drive around restocking bookshops from copies they carried in the boot.

Almost three decades on, it remains in print and with good reason. Some cookbooks give an insight into a specific culture. Others drill down on a set of techniques and methods. And then there’s Real Fast Food, which introduced the world to a particular voice and sensibility to an endlessly encouraging approach not to the blunt mechanics of cooking, but to the joys of eating and living well. It ripples with good taste. Nigel’s good taste. Real Fast Food was always going to be included in this series. We just had to wait for the author to take a week off from his regular column. “It’s such a generous book,” says fellow food writer Nigella Lawson, “because it allows the reader to understand what cooking is all about. He explains which bits matter and which bits don’t. You could cook from it for a lifetime.”

By the early 90s Nigel was working as a food stylist for advertising shoots. As a sideline he was writing what he describes as “extended picture caption recipes” for the newly launched magazine Marie Claire. “They were more than that,” says Louise Haines, who became his editor at Penguin Books and who, three decades later, remains his editor. “I found myself cutting out all these recipes for my own use and I suddenly thought this means something. There were lots of brilliant ideas.” She wrote to him suggesting a book. “And I wrote back,” Nigel says, “saying thank you, but I don’t think I could write a book.”

‘It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness’: pork chops

Haines persevered. They met for lunch and thrashed out a plan. “She wanted a book that would enable her to get food on the table from what was in her cupboards without a big shop,” Nigel recalls. And so he set to work. We may now take for granted Nigel’s ability to write as if he is talking to us and only to us. That voice was fully formed from the off. “As he sent me chapters it was a delight to discover that he wrote like an angel,” Haines says.

In the introduction he announces it contains “no complicated procedures, no dithering around with affected arrangements on oversized plates and no effete garnishes”. It has 350 or so “recipes” that can be completed quickly, ideally within 30 minutes. I put that word in inverted commas because many of them are less detailed methods than ideas for what you could do by putting nice things in each other’s company.

‘Intense and crusted’: tandoori chicken thighs

It is arranged by groups of ingredients – eggs, fish or pasta meat, cheese or fruit – with suggestions under each one. Some seem involved. There’s red mullet with fennel and Pernod. There’s the delightfully titled “green beans, poached eggs and fancy leaves” and the fabulously named rumbledethumps, a Scottish take on colcannon. Ali Real Fast Food is also one of the finest collections of gussied-up sandwich suggestions ever published. If it can be eaten between two pieces of bread or shoved inside a bap, Nigel is all for it.

Have a cold roast pork sandwich with pickled walnuts and crackling. Or a fishfinger sandwich. Or one filled with spiced tuna (lots of cayenne, paprika and garlic). His bacon sandwich “only really comes into its own when you are slightly drunk”. The instructions for a chip butty include the need for cheap white bread and that “the sandwich should drip with butter”. By the time you get to the banana sandwich – add bacon, mayo and mango chutney – it reads less like a cookbook, and more like a self-help manual directing you to live your best life and sod the consequences.

The chef Skye Gyngell of the restaurant Spring is a huge fan. “He is probably the cookery writer I most admire,” she says. “He has this incredible gift for breathing life and intimacy into food.”

‘Life is not too short’: stuffed mushrooms

I have loved cooking my way through all the titles featured in this column so far, but it was a particular joy to reach Real Fast Food to have Nigel at my side and know both that nothing would take me very long and that, because it’s all so loose and free, I couldn’t screw anything up. I dredged pork chops through crushed black pepper, fried them in butter and deglazed the pan with brandy, red wine and chicken stock as directed. It was 30 minutes to punchy loveliness. I blitzed yoghurt with spices to make a faux tandoori marinade for chicken thighs and roasted the hell out of them until they became intense and crusted. Courtesy of his recipe for funghi ripieni I discovered life was not too short to stuff a mushroom, if that stuffing involves fried onions, garlic, salted anchovies and breadcrumbs. I filled a bowl with raspberries (from frozen) covered them with a duvet of mascarpone and caster sugar and shoved it under a hot grill. It will be my new “aren’t I clever and don’t I wear it lightly” dinner party dessert.

“I should hate to think of anyone following them slavishly,” Nigel says of his recipes, early on. And: “I have to admit to rarely measuring anything.” Then again, he has standards. He’s a big fan of a white linen napkin and a simple white plate with a rim to keep the sauce in. And don’t even think of arranging a vase of flowers for the table too artfully. “Well, that’s just what I’m like, isn’t it?” On kaže. It is indeed. Real Fast Food led to many things: a bunch of other books, TV shows, an international following, and, a year after publication, the offer of a column in this newspaper. But most of all it has led to a lot of joyous cooking and eating.

Real Fast Food by Nigel Slater is published by Penguin. Buy it for £9.99 at guardianbookshop.com


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