Novi recepti

Ključ za pravljenje čokolade

Ključ za pravljenje čokolade

Savjeti profesionalaca o tome kako pripremiti ovu morsku hranu

Čorba je gotovo obred prijelaza na istočnoj obali, hrana cijenjena vremenom koja izaziva strast i tradiciju u ljudima. Nigdje to nije evidentnije nego na Newport Chowder festivalu održanom na Rhode Islandu. Vrhunac proslave čokolade održava se na Newport Chowder festivalu koji je upotpunjen navijačicama koje skandiraju "Idi u Connecticutu!" i izvodeći akrobatske pokrete, maskote školjki, Chowdaheadsa i tone entuzijastičnih jede i kuhara. Kuhanje je natjecanje koje traje već 30 godina i čini se da nigdje ne vodi.

O pravom stilu čorbe često se raspravlja: Neki tvrde da bi trebao biti gust i kremast (u stilu Nove Engleske), tanak i slan, ili na bazi rajčice (u stilu Manhattana). Ono o čemu se ne raspravlja je da je to krupna supa od plodova mora koja obično sadrži nekoliko vrsta plodova mora i povrća - i ukusna je. Čokoladna žitarica najpoznatija je od svih, ali to ne znači da nema mjesta za nove i uzbudljive izmišljotine.

Na Chowder Festu sudionici se natječu u tri različite kategorije, tradicionalnoj (školjke), plodovima mora i kreativnoj, s pobjednikom za svaku kategoriju. U nastavku smo neke od takmičara i pobjednika pitali šta misle da je ključ savršene čorbe od školjki.


Kako napraviti pravu New England Englesku čorbu | Laboratorija za hranu

Ne previše gusta, ne previše tanka, savršeno kremasta, puna nježnih školjki, svinjskog mesa i krumpira.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

Ako ste neko vrijeme proveli u obalnoj Novoj Engleskoj, vjerojatno ste primijetili kako se velikodušno dodjeljuju nagrade čorbi od školjki. Nikada nisam sreo ljude koji vode ove tvornice nagrada, ali imam problem sa bilo kojom organizacijom koja dijeli pohvale poput letaka.

Nakon što sam cijeli život proveo putujući kroz Novu Englesku, navikao sam se na činjenicu da devet od deset "nagrađivanih!" ili "#1 je glasao!" čorbe od školjki stići će za stol ili debele kao pasta, lišene školjki ili prepune školjki tako gumenih da vam odbijaju čeljusti, a nažalost većina domaćih recepata ne daje bolje rezultate. A ako je teško pronaći veliku čorbu u njenom rodnom mjestu, možete zamisliti kako je to spolja Nove Engleske.

Kad se dobro uradi, čorba od školjki bi trebala biti bogata i zasitna, ali ne muljan ili nalik gulašu. Njegova tekstura bi trebala biti kremasta bez osjećaja olova, kao da pijuckate umak. Nežni komadići krompira jedva da drže oblik, otapaju se na jeziku, a njihova meka tekstura u suprotnosti je s nježnim zalogajima slane svinjetine i slane bogice, pomozite kolibi sa školjkama koja se usuđuje poslužiti gumene školjke u svojoj žitarici!

Okus čorbe od školjki trebao bi biti nježan i blag, slatkoća svinjetine nadopunjuje blagu gorčinu školjki, naglašenu komadićima celera i luka koji su se gotovo rastopili u juhi, potpuno nestajući u pozadini. Dobro mljevenje crnog papra i jedan ili dva lovorova lista jedini su vam dodatni začini, osim ako potrebne za krekere od kamenica ne računate. Znam neke Jenkije koji to znaju.

The Precedents

Čorbe imaju dugu, složenu i relativno apokrifnu istoriju koja se može pratiti od gulaša od ribe i plodova mora koji se jedu u priobalnoj Engleskoj i Francuskoj. Kao i mnoga stara jela, naziv hrane potječe od riječi za posudu za kuhanje, veliki lonac za kuhanje ili "kotao", poznato na francuskom kao chaudiere. Ili možda dolazi iz starog engleskog izraza za trgovca ribom jowter, koji je bio u upotrebi u Cornwallu barem od 16. stoljeća.

Bez obzira na etimologiju, njegova se povijest može pratiti preko Atlantika do ribarskih gradova Nove Engleske-Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford-gdje je evropsko jelo prilagođeno za rad sa namirnicama pogodnim za putovanje, poput luka, krumpira i soli svinjetinu ili govedinu, zajedno s lokalnim sastojcima poput bakalara, kamenica i školjki.

Prije desetak godina radila sam kao kuharica B & ampG Oysters u južnom kraju Bostona, koliba s plodovima mora s hlačama koju vodi Barbara Lynch. Tamo sam prvi put počeo da se ozbiljno zanimam za pravljenje čorbi, i tamo sam shvatio da to jeste ne samo šljampave stvari za koje sam odgojen da vjerujem da jesu. Svoju čorbu smo napravili na način otmjenog restorana - kuhali smo i začinjavali svaki element pojedinačno, kombinirajući, pireirajući, procjedivši, dodajući, miješajući, sve dok naša juha nije bila intenzivno aromatizirana i lagana, naše školjke bile su savršeno nježne, a svako povrće kuhano samo tako .

Bilo je ukusno, ali definitivno ne način na koji se tradicionalna čorba pravi kao hrana siromašnog čovjeka značio je uzimanje malo sastojaka i još manje truda. Sjećam se da sam listao kopiju 50 čokolada, autora Jaspera Whitea, u kojem se otkriva najstariji poznati štampani recept za čokoladu u Novoj Engleskoj, od izdanja časopisa od 23. septembra 1751. godine Boston Evening Post:

"Jer u Chouderu ne može doći do okretanja. Zatim položite nešto svinjetine na kriške. Tako da u Chouderu uvijek morate započeti. Zatim položite vrlo lijepo narezane ribe. Zatim dobro začinite paprom, soli i začinjenim peršinom, slatkim mažuranom, Ukusno i majčina dušica, zatim sljedeći keks koji se mora natopiti neko vrijeme. Tako je postavljena vaša osnova, moći ćete podići glasnije, visoko poput babilonske kule. Ponovnim ponavljanjem istog, možete napraviti Glasnije za hiljadu ljudi. Uz bocu Claret -a, sa vodom eno da ih uguši, imat ćete nered koji neki nazivaju Omnium, skupite ih. "

Osim zanimljive tehnike slaganja sastojaka u post za njihovo pirjanje i same viktorijanske upotrebe začina, recept u osnovi glasi "stavite stvari u lonac i skuhajte ih". Jedna stvar koju ćete odmah primijetiti je da mliječni proizvodi izrazito nedostaju u receptu. Umjesto toga, čokolada je svoju debljinu i bogatstvo dobila od natopljenih keksa. (Imajte na umu da se u ovoj upotrebi keksi najvjerojatnije odnose na žilave tvrdokorne slične krekere, a ne na pahuljasto dizano keksiće juga Amerike).

Polako, kako su mliječni proizvodi postajali jeftiniji i dostupniji u regiji, počeli su se pojavljivati ​​sve veći i veći u čorbi, isprva se jednostavno koristila za vlaženje biskvita, da bi ga na kraju potpuno zamijenila kao primarni sastojak izvan školjki, svinjetine i aromati. Ovih dana keksići žive u obliku krekera od kamenica, koje, kao što vam svaka prava glava čokolade može reći, treba obilno dodati u zdjelu i ostaviti da malo omekšaju prije konzumiranja.

Dakle, koji je najbolji način kuhanja čorbe? Može li se metoda dump-and-simmer poboljšati nekom modernom tehnikom ili postoji nešto u klasičnom što se izgubi ako se petlja sa previše?

Odlučio sam raščlaniti element po element i stvarno shvatiti šta je to što tjera žitarice od školjki.

Izgradnja baze

Većina osnovnih recepata za čorbu od školjki zahtijeva topljenje nekog oblika slanog svinjskog mesa (obično slanine ili svinjskog mesa), znojenje luka i celera u topljenoj masti, malo brašna, zatim mlijeko, krumpir, sjeckani i povremeno flaširani sok od školjki. . Sve se krčka zajedno s lovorovim listom ili dva dok se krumpir ne skuha i juha ne zgusne. Završi s malo vrhnja, ili možda pola -pola.

Odmah, imam nekih problema s ovim procesom-roux na bazi brašna može biti pastozan, a kuhanje školjki sve dok je krumpir siguran put do gumenih školjki. Sva ova pitanja bi se trebala riješiti. Ali prvo prvo.


Kako napraviti pravu New England Englesku čorbu | Laboratorija za hranu

Ne previše gusta, ne previše tanka, savršeno kremasta, puna nježnih školjki, svinjskog mesa i krumpira.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

Ako ste neko vrijeme proveli u obalnoj Novoj Engleskoj, vjerojatno ste primijetili kako se velikodušno dodjeljuju nagrade čorbi od školjki. Nikada nisam sreo ljude koji vode ove tvornice nagrada, ali imam problem sa bilo kojom organizacijom koja dijeli pohvale poput letaka.

Nakon što sam cijeli život proveo putujući kroz Novu Englesku, navikao sam se na činjenicu da devet od deset "nagrađivanih!" ili "#1 je glasao!" čorbe od školjki stići će za stol ili debele kao pasta, lišene školjki ili prepune školjki tako gumenih da vam odbijaju čeljusti, a nažalost većina domaćih recepata ne daje bolje rezultate. A ako je teško pronaći veliku čorbu u njenom rodnom mjestu, možete zamisliti kako je to spolja Nove Engleske.

Kad se dobro uradi, čorba od školjki bi trebala biti bogata i zasitna, ali ne muljan ili nalik gulašu. Njegova tekstura bi trebala biti kremasta bez osjećaja olova, kao da pijuckate umak. Nježni komadići krompira jedva bi trebali zadržati oblik, otapajući se na jeziku, a njihova meka tekstura u kontrastu je s nježnim zalogajima slane svinjetine i slane bogice, pomozite kolibi sa školjkama koja se usuđuje poslužiti gumene školjke u svojoj žitarici!

Okus čorbe od školjki trebao bi biti nježan i blag, slatkoća svinjetine nadopunjuje blagu gorčinu školjki, naglašenu komadićima celera i luka koji su se gotovo rastopili u juhi, potpuno nestajući u pozadini. Dobro mljevenje crnog papra i jedan ili dva lovorova lista jedini su vam dodatni začini, osim ako potrebne za krekere od kamenica ne računate. Znam neke Jenkije koji to znaju.

The Precedents

Čorbe imaju dugu, složenu i relativno apokrifnu istoriju koja se može pratiti od gulaša od ribe i plodova mora koji se jedu u priobalnoj Engleskoj i Francuskoj. Kao i mnoga stara jela, naziv hrane potječe od riječi za posudu za kuhanje, veliki lonac za kuhanje ili "kotao", poznato na francuskom kao chaudiere. Ili možda dolazi od starog engleskog izraza za trgovca ribom jowter, koji je bio u upotrebi u Cornwallu barem od 16. stoljeća.

Bez obzira na etimologiju, njegova se povijest može pratiti preko Atlantika do ribarskih gradova Nove Engleske-Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford-gdje je evropsko jelo prilagođeno za rad sa namirnicama pogodnim za putovanje, poput luka, krumpira i soli svinjetinu ili govedinu, zajedno s lokalnim sastojcima poput bakalara, kamenica i školjki.

Prije desetak godina radila sam kao kuharica B & ampG Oysters u južnom kraju Bostona, koliba s plodovima mora s hlačama koju vodi Barbara Lynch. Tamo sam prvi put počeo da se ozbiljno zanimam za pravljenje čorbi, i tamo sam shvatio da to jeste ne samo šljampave stvari za koje sam odgojen da vjerujem da jesu. Svoju čorbu smo napravili na način otmjenog restorana - kuhali smo i začinjavali svaki element pojedinačno, kombinirajući, pireirajući, procjedivši, dodajući, miješajući, sve dok naša juha nije bila intenzivno aromatizirana i lagana, naše školjke bile su savršeno nježne, a svako povrće kuhano samo tako .

Bilo je ukusno, ali definitivno ne način na koji se tradicionalna čorba pravi kao hrana siromašnog čovjeka značio je uzimanje malo sastojaka i još manje truda. Sjećam se da sam listao kopiju 50 čokolada, autora Jaspera Whitea, u kojem se otkriva najstariji poznati štampani recept za čokoladu u Novoj Engleskoj, od izdanja časopisa od 23. septembra 1751. godine Boston Evening Post:

"Jer u Chouderu ne može doći do okretanja. Zatim položite nešto svinjetine na kriške. Tako da u Chouderu uvijek morate početi. Slijedi jako lijepo narezane ribe, a zatim dobro začinite paprom, soli i začinjenim peršinom, slatkim mažuranom, Ukusno i majčina dušica, zatim sljedeći keks koji se mora natopiti neko vrijeme. Tako je postavljena vaša osnova, moći ćete podići glasnije, visoko poput babilonske kule. Ponovnim ponavljanjem istog, možete napraviti Glasnije za hiljadu ljudi. Uz bocu Claret -a, sa vodom eno da ih uguši, imat ćete nered koji neki nazivaju Omnium, skupite ih. "

Osim zanimljive tehnike slaganja sastojaka u post za njihovo pirjanje i same viktorijanske upotrebe začina, recept u osnovi glasi "stavite stvari u lonac i skuhajte ih". Jedna stvar koju ćete odmah primijetiti je da mliječni proizvodi izrazito nedostaju u receptu. Umjesto toga, čokolada je svoju debljinu i bogatstvo dobila od natopljenih keksa. (Imajte na umu da se u ovoj upotrebi keksi najvjerojatnije odnose na žilave tvrdokorne materijale nalik krekeru, a ne na pahuljasto dizano keksiće juga Amerike).

Polako, kako su mliječni proizvodi postajali jeftiniji i dostupniji u regiji, počeli su se pojavljivati ​​sve veći i veći u čorbi, isprva se jednostavno koristila za vlaženje biskvita, da bi ga na kraju potpuno zamijenila kao primarni sastojak izvan školjki, svinjetine i aromati. Ovih dana keksići žive u obliku krekera od kamenica, koje, kao što vam svaka prava glava čokolade može reći, treba obilno dodati u zdjelu i ostaviti da malo omekšaju prije konzumiranja.

Dakle, koji je najbolji način kuhanja čorbe? Može li se metoda dump-and-simmer poboljšati nekom modernom tehnikom ili postoji nešto u klasičnom što se izgubi ako se petlja sa previše?

Odlučio sam raščlaniti element po element i stvarno shvatiti šta je to što tjera žitarice od školjki.

Izgradnja baze

Većina osnovnih recepata za čorbu od školjki zahtijeva topljenje nekog oblika slanog svinjskog mesa (obično slanine ili svinjskog mesa), znojenje luka i celera u topljenoj masti, malo brašna, zatim mlijeko, krumpir, sjeckani i povremeno flaširani sok od školjki. . Sve se dinsta zajedno s lovorovim listom ili dva dok se krumpir ne skuha i juha ne zgusne. Završi s malo vrhnja, ili možda pola -pola.

Odmah, imam nekih problema s ovim procesom-roux na bazi brašna može biti pastozan, a kuhanje školjki sve dok je krumpir siguran put do gumenih školjki. Sva ova pitanja bi se trebala riješiti. Ali prvo prvo.


Kako napraviti pravu New England Englesku čorbu | Laboratorija za hranu

Ne previše gusta, ne previše tanka, savršeno kremasta, prepuna nježnih školjki, svinjskog mesa i krumpira.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

Ako ste neko vrijeme proveli u priobalnoj Novoj Engleskoj, vjerojatno ste primijetili kako se velikodušno dodjeljuju nagrade čorbi od školjki. Nikada nisam sreo ljude koji vode ove tvornice nagrada, ali imam problem sa bilo kojom organizacijom koja dijeli pohvale poput letaka.

Nakon što sam cijeli život proveo putujući kroz Novu Englesku, navikao sam se na činjenicu da devet od deset "nagrađivanih!" ili "#1 je glasao!" čorbe od školjki stići će za stol ili debele kao pasta, lišene školjki ili prepune školjki tako gumenih da vam odbijaju čeljusti, a nažalost većina domaćih recepata ne daje bolje rezultate. A ako je teško pronaći veliku čorbu u njenom rodnom mjestu, možete zamisliti kako je to spolja Nove Engleske.

Kad se dobro uradi, čorba od školjki bi trebala biti bogata i zasitna, ali ne muljan ili nalik gulašu. Njegova tekstura bi trebala biti kremasta bez osjećaja olova, kao da pijuckate umak. Nežni komadići krompira jedva da drže oblik, otapaju se na jeziku, a njihova meka tekstura u suprotnosti je s nježnim zalogajima slane svinjetine i slane bogice, pomozite kolibi sa školjkama koja se usuđuje poslužiti gumene školjke u svojoj žitarici!

Okus čorbe od školjki trebao bi biti nježan i blag, slatkoća svinjetine nadopunjuje blagu gorčinu školjki, naglašenu komadićima celera i luka koji su se gotovo rastopili u juhi, potpuno nestajući u pozadini. Dobro mljevenje crnog papra i jedan ili dva lovorova lista jedini su vam dodatni začini, osim ako potrebne za krekere od kamenica ne računate. Znam neke Jenkije koji to znaju.

The Precedents

Čorbe imaju dugu, složenu i relativno apokrifnu istoriju koja se može pratiti od gulaša od ribe i plodova mora koji se jedu u priobalnoj Engleskoj i Francuskoj. Poput mnogih starih jela, naziv hrane potječe od riječi za posudu za kuhanje, veliki lonac za kuhanje ili "kotao", poznato na francuskom kao chaudiere. Ili možda dolazi iz starog engleskog izraza za trgovca ribom jowter, koji je bio u upotrebi u Cornwallu barem od 16. stoljeća.

Bez obzira na etimologiju, njegova se povijest može pratiti preko Atlantika do ribarskih gradova Nove Engleske-Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford-gdje je evropsko jelo prilagođeno za rad sa namirnicama pogodnim za putovanje, poput luka, krumpira i soli svinjetinu ili govedinu, zajedno s lokalnim sastojcima poput bakalara, kamenica i školjki.

Prije desetak godina radila sam kao kuharica B & ampG Oysters u južnom kraju Bostona, koliba s plodovima mora s hlačama koju vodi Barbara Lynch. Tamo sam prvi put počeo da se ozbiljno zanimam za pravljenje čorbi, i tamo sam shvatio da to jeste ne samo šljampave stvari za koje sam odgojen da vjerujem da jesu. Svoju čorbu smo napravili na način otmjenog restorana - kuhali smo i začinjavali svaki element zasebno, kombinirajući, pireirajući, procjedivši, dodajući, miješajući, sve dok naša juha nije bila intenzivno aromatizirana i lagana, naše školjke bile su savršeno nježne, a svako povrće kuhano samo tako .

Bilo je ukusno, ali definitivno ne način na koji se tradicionalna čorba pravi kao hrana siromašnog čovjeka značio je uzimanje malo sastojaka i još manje truda. Sjećam se da sam listao kopiju 50 čokolada, autora Jaspera Whitea, u kojem se otkriva najstariji poznati štampani recept za čokoladu u Novoj Engleskoj, od izdanja časopisa od 23. septembra 1751. godine Boston Evening Post:

"Jer u Chouderu ne može doći do okretanja. Zatim položite nešto svinjetine na kriške. Tako da u Chouderu uvijek morate započeti. Zatim položite vrlo lijepo narezane ribe. Zatim dobro začinite paprom, soli i začinjenim peršinom, slatkim mažuranom, Ukusno i majčina dušica, zatim sljedeći keks koji se mora natopiti neko vrijeme. Tako je postavljena vaša osnova, moći ćete podići glasnije, visoko poput babilonske kule. Ponovnim ponavljanjem istog, možete napraviti Glasnije za hiljadu ljudi. Uz bocu Claret -a, sa vodom eno da ih uguši, imat ćete nered koji neki nazivaju Omnium, skupite ih. "

Osim zanimljive tehnike slaganja sastojaka u post za njihovo pirjanje i same viktorijanske upotrebe začina, recept u osnovi glasi "stavite stvari u lonac i skuhajte ih". Jedna stvar koju ćete odmah primijetiti je da mliječni proizvodi izrazito nedostaju u receptu. Umjesto toga, čokolada je svoju debljinu i bogatstvo dobila od natopljenih keksa. (Imajte na umu da se u ovoj upotrebi keksi najvjerojatnije odnose na žilave, tvrdokorne nalik krekeru, a ne na pahuljasto dizano keksiće juga Amerike).

Polako, kako su mliječni proizvodi postajali jeftiniji i dostupniji u regiji, počeli su se pojavljivati ​​sve veći i veći u čorbi, isprva se jednostavno koristila za vlaženje biskvita, da bi ga na kraju potpuno zamijenila kao primarni sastojak izvan školjki, svinjetine i aromati. Ovih dana keksići žive u obliku krekera od kamenica, koje, kao što vam svaka prava glava čokolade može reći, treba obilno dodati u zdjelu i ostaviti da malo omekšaju prije konzumiranja.

Dakle, koji je najbolji način kuhanja čorbe? Može li se metoda dump-and-simmer poboljšati nekom modernom tehnikom ili postoji nešto u klasičnom što se izgubi ako se petlja sa previše?

Odlučio sam raščlaniti element po element i stvarno shvatiti šta je to što tjera žitarice od školjki.

Izgradnja baze

Većina osnovnih recepata za čorbu od školjki zahtijeva topljenje nekog oblika slanog svinjskog mesa (obično slanine ili svinjskog mesa), znojenje luka i celera u topljenoj masti, dodir brašna, zatim mlijeko, krumpir, sjeckani i povremeno flaširani sok od školjki. . Sve se dinsta zajedno s lovorovim listom ili dva dok se krumpir ne skuha i juha ne zgusne. Završi s malo vrhnja, ili možda pola -pola.

Odmah, imam nekih problema s ovim procesom-roux na bazi brašna može biti pastozan, a kuhanje školjki sve dok je krumpir siguran put do gumenih školjki. Sva ova pitanja bi se trebala riješiti. Ali prvo prvo.


Kako napraviti pravu New England Englesku čorbu | Laboratorija za hranu

Ne previše gusta, ne previše tanka, savršeno kremasta, prepuna nježnih školjki, svinjskog mesa i krumpira.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

Ako ste neko vrijeme proveli u obalnoj Novoj Engleskoj, vjerojatno ste primijetili kako se velikodušno dodjeljuju nagrade čorbi od školjki. Nikada nisam sreo ljude koji vode ove tvornice nagrada, ali imam problem sa bilo kojom organizacijom koja dijeli pohvale poput letaka.

Nakon što sam cijeli život proveo putujući kroz Novu Englesku, navikao sam se na činjenicu da devet od deset "nagrađivanih!" ili "#1 je glasao!" čorbe od školjki stići će za stol ili debele kao pasta, lišene školjki ili prepune školjki tako gumenih da vam odbijaju čeljusti, a nažalost većina domaćih recepata ne daje bolje rezultate. A ako je teško pronaći veliku čorbu u njenom rodnom mjestu, možete zamisliti kako je to spolja Nove Engleske.

Kad se dobro uradi, čorba od školjki bi trebala biti bogata i zasitna, ali ne muljan ili nalik gulašu. Njegova tekstura bi trebala biti kremasta bez osjećaja olova, kao da pijuckate umak. Nežni komadići krompira jedva da drže oblik, otapaju se na jeziku, a njihova meka tekstura u suprotnosti je s nježnim zalogajima slane svinjetine i slane bogice, pomozite kolibi sa školjkama koja se usuđuje poslužiti gumene školjke u svojoj žitarici!

Okus čorbe od školjki trebao bi biti nježan i blag, slatkoća svinjetine nadopunjuje blagu gorčinu školjki, naglašenu komadićima celera i luka koji su se gotovo rastopili u juhi, potpuno nestajući u pozadini. Dobro mljevenje crnog papra i jedan ili dva lovorova lista jedini su vam dodatni začini, osim ako potrebne za krekere od kamenica ne računate. Znam neke Jenkije koji to znaju.

The Precedents

Čorbe imaju dugu, složenu i relativno apokrifnu istoriju koja se može pratiti od gulaša od ribe i plodova mora koji se jedu u priobalnoj Engleskoj i Francuskoj. Kao i mnoga stara jela, naziv hrane potječe od riječi za posudu za kuhanje, veliki lonac za kuhanje ili "kotao", poznato na francuskom kao chaudiere. Ili možda dolazi od starog engleskog izraza za trgovca ribom jowter, koji je bio u upotrebi u Cornwallu barem od 16. stoljeća.

Bez obzira na etimologiju, njegova se povijest može pratiti preko Atlantika do ribarskih gradova Nove Engleske-Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford-gdje je evropsko jelo prilagođeno za rad sa namirnicama pogodnim za putovanje, poput luka, krumpira i soli svinjetinu ili govedinu, zajedno s lokalnim sastojcima poput bakalara, kamenica i školjki.

Prije desetak godina radila sam kao kuharica B & ampG Oysters u južnom kraju Bostona, koliba s plodovima mora s hlačama koju vodi Barbara Lynch. Tamo sam prvi put počeo da se ozbiljno zanimam za pravljenje čorbi, i tamo sam shvatio da to jeste ne samo šljampave stvari za koje sam odgojen da vjerujem da jesu. Svoju čorbu smo napravili na način otmjenog restorana - kuhali smo i začinjavali svaki element zasebno, kombinirajući, pireirajući, procjedivši, dodajući, miješajući, sve dok naša juha nije bila intenzivno aromatizirana i lagana, naše školjke bile su savršeno nježne, a svako povrće kuhano samo tako .

Bilo je ukusno, ali definitivno ne način na koji se tradicionalna čorba pravi kao hrana siromašnog čovjeka značio je uzimanje malo sastojaka i još manje truda. Sjećam se da sam listao kopiju 50 čokolada, autora Jaspera Whitea, u kojem se otkriva najstariji poznati štampani recept za čokoladu u Novoj Engleskoj, od izdanja časopisa od 23. septembra 1751. godine Boston Evening Post:

"Jer u Chouderu ne može doći do okretanja. Zatim položite nešto svinjetine na kriške. Tako da u Chouderu uvijek morate početi. Slijedi jako lijepo narezane ribe, a zatim dobro začinite paprom, soli i začinjenim peršinom, slatkim mažuranom, Ukusno i majčina dušica, zatim sljedeći keks koji se mora natopiti neko vrijeme. Tako je postavljena vaša osnova, moći ćete podići glasnije, visoko poput babilonske kule. Ponovnim ponavljanjem istog, možete napraviti Glasnije za hiljadu ljudi. Uz bocu Claret -a, sa vodom eno da ih uguši, imat ćete nered koji neki nazivaju Omnium, skupite ih. "

Osim zanimljive tehnike slaganja sastojaka u post za njihovo pirjanje i same viktorijanske upotrebe začina, recept u osnovi glasi "stavite stvari u lonac i skuhajte ih". Jedna stvar koju ćete odmah primijetiti je da mliječni proizvodi izrazito nedostaju u receptu. Umjesto toga, čokolada je svoju debljinu i bogatstvo dobila od natopljenih keksa. (Imajte na umu da se u ovoj upotrebi keksi najvjerojatnije odnose na žilave, tvrdokorne nalik krekeru, a ne na pahuljasto dizano keksiće juga Amerike).

Polako, kako su mliječni proizvodi postajali jeftiniji i dostupniji u regiji, počeli su se pojavljivati ​​sve veći i veći u čorbi, isprva se jednostavno koristila za vlaženje keksa, da bi ga na kraju potpuno zamijenila kao primarni sastojak izvan školjki, svinjetine i aromati. Ovih dana keksići žive u obliku krekera od kamenica, koje, kao što vam svaka prava glava čokolade može reći, treba obilno dodati u zdjelu i ostaviti da malo omekšaju prije konzumiranja.

Dakle, koji je najbolji način kuhanja čorbe? Može li se metoda dump-and-simmer poboljšati nekom modernom tehnikom ili postoji nešto u klasičnom što se izgubi ako se petlja sa previše?

Odlučio sam raščlaniti element po element i stvarno shvatiti šta je to što tjera žitarice od školjki.

Izgradnja baze

Većina osnovnih recepata za čorbu od školjki zahtijeva topljenje nekog oblika slanog svinjskog mesa (obično slanine ili svinjskog mesa), znojenje luka i celera u topljenoj masti, malo brašna, zatim mlijeko, krumpir, sjeckani i povremeno flaširani sok od školjki. . Sve se dinsta zajedno s lovorovim listom ili dva dok se krumpir ne skuha i juha ne zgusne. Završi s malo vrhnja, ili možda pola -pola.

Odmah, imam nekih problema s ovim procesom-roux na bazi brašna može biti pastozan, a kuhanje školjki sve dok je krumpir siguran put do gumenih školjki. Sva ova pitanja bi se trebala riješiti. Ali prvo prvo.


Kako napraviti pravu New England Englesku čorbu | Laboratorija za hranu

Ne previše gusta, ne previše tanka, savršeno kremasta, prepuna nježnih školjki, svinjskog mesa i krumpira.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

Ako ste neko vrijeme proveli u priobalnoj Novoj Engleskoj, vjerojatno ste primijetili kako se velikodušno dodjeljuju nagrade čorbi od školjki. Nikada nisam sreo ljude koji vode ove tvornice nagrada, ali imam problem sa bilo kojom organizacijom koja dijeli pohvale poput letaka.

Nakon što sam cijeli život proveo putujući kroz Novu Englesku, navikao sam se na činjenicu da devet od deset "nagrađivanih!" ili "#1 je glasao!" čorbe od školjki stići će za stol ili debele kao pasta, lišene školjki ili prepune školjki tako gumenih da vam odbijaju čeljusti, a nažalost većina domaćih recepata ne daje bolje rezultate. A ako je teško pronaći veliku čorbu u njenom rodnom mjestu, možete zamisliti kako je to spolja Nove Engleske.

Kad se dobro uradi, čorba od školjki bi trebala biti bogata i zasitna, ali ne muljan ili nalik gulašu. Njegova tekstura bi trebala biti kremasta bez osjećaja olova, kao da pijuckate umak. Nježni komadići krompira jedva bi trebali zadržati oblik, otapajući se na jeziku, a njihova meka tekstura u kontrastu je s nježnim zalogajima slane svinjetine i slane bogice, pomozite kolibi sa školjkama koja se usuđuje poslužiti gumene školjke u svojoj žitarici!

Okus čorbe od školjki trebao bi biti nježan i blag, slatkoća svinjetine nadopunjuje blagu gorčinu školjki, naglašenu komadićima celera i luka koji su se gotovo rastopili u juhi, potpuno nestajući u pozadini. Dobro mljevenje crnog papra i jedan ili dva lovorova lista jedini su vam dodatni začini, osim ako potrebne za krekere od kamenica ne računate. Znam neke Jenkije koji to znaju.

The Precedents

Čorbe imaju dugu, složenu i relativno apokrifnu istoriju koja se može pratiti od gulaša od ribe i plodova mora koji se jedu u priobalnoj Engleskoj i Francuskoj. Poput mnogih starih jela, naziv hrane potječe od riječi za posudu za kuhanje, veliki lonac za kuhanje ili "kotao", poznato na francuskom kao chaudiere. Ili možda dolazi od starog engleskog izraza za trgovca ribom jowter, koji je bio u upotrebi u Cornwallu barem od 16. stoljeća.

Bez obzira na etimologiju, njegova se povijest može pratiti preko Atlantika do ribarskih gradova Nove Engleske-Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford-gdje je evropsko jelo prilagođeno za rad sa namirnicama pogodnim za putovanje, poput luka, krumpira i soli svinjetinu ili govedinu, zajedno s lokalnim sastojcima poput bakalara, kamenica i školjki.

Prije desetak godina radila sam kao kuharica B & ampG Oysters u južnom kraju Bostona, koliba s plodovima mora s hlačama koju vodi Barbara Lynch. Tamo sam prvi put počeo da se ozbiljno zanimam za pravljenje čorbi, i tamo sam shvatio da to jeste ne samo šljampave stvari za koje sam odgojen da vjerujem da jesu. Svoju čorbu smo napravili na način otmjenog restorana - kuhali smo i začinjavali svaki element pojedinačno, kombinirajući, pireirajući, procjedivši, dodajući, miješajući, sve dok naša juha nije bila intenzivno aromatizirana i lagana, naše školjke bile su savršeno nježne, a svako povrće kuhano samo tako .

Bilo je ukusno, ali definitivno ne način na koji se tradicionalna čorba pravi kao hrana siromašnog čovjeka značio je uzimanje malo sastojaka i još manje truda. Sjećam se da sam listao kopiju 50 čokolada, autora Jaspera Whitea, u kojem se otkriva najstariji poznati štampani recept za čokoladu u Novoj Engleskoj, od izdanja časopisa od 23. septembra 1751. godine Boston Evening Post:

"Jer u Chouderu ne može doći do okretanja. Zatim položite nešto svinjetine na kriške, pa morate u Chouderu uvijek početi. Zatim položite vrlo lijepo narezane ribe, a zatim dobro začinite paprom, soli i začinjenim peršinom, slatkim mažuranom, Ukusno i majčina dušica, zatim sljedeći keks koji se mora natopiti neko vrijeme. Tako je postavljena vaša osnova, moći ćete podići glasnije, visoko poput babilonske kule. Ponovnim ponavljanjem istog, možete napraviti Glasnije za hiljadu ljudi. Uz bocu Claret -a, sa vodom eno da ih uguši, imat ćete nered koji neki nazivaju Omnium, skupite ih. "

Osim zanimljive tehnike slaganja sastojaka u post za njihovo pirjanje i same viktorijanske upotrebe začina, recept u osnovi glasi "stavite stvari u lonac i skuhajte ih". Jedna stvar koju ćete odmah primijetiti je da mliječni proizvodi izrazito nedostaju u receptu. Umjesto toga, čokolada je svoju debljinu i bogatstvo dobila od natopljenih keksa. (Imajte na umu da se u ovoj upotrebi keksi najvjerojatnije odnose na žilave tvrdokorne materijale nalik krekeru, a ne na pahuljasto dizano keksiće juga Amerike).

Polako, kako su mliječni proizvodi postajali jeftiniji i dostupniji u regiji, počeli su se pojavljivati ​​sve veći i veći u čorbi, isprva se jednostavno koristila za vlaženje biskvita, da bi ga na kraju potpuno zamijenila kao primarni sastojak izvan školjki, svinjetine i aromati. Ovih dana keksići žive u obliku krekera od kamenica, koje, kao što vam svaka prava glava čokolade može reći, treba obilno dodati u zdjelu i ostaviti da malo omekšaju prije konzumiranja.

Dakle, koji je najbolji način kuhanja čorbe? Može li se metoda dump-and-simmer poboljšati nekom modernom tehnikom ili postoji nešto u klasičnom što se izgubi ako se petlja sa previše?

Odlučio sam raščlaniti element po element i stvarno shvatiti šta je to što tjera žitarice od školjki.

Izgradnja baze

Most basic recipes for clam chowder call for rendering down some form of salted pork (bacon or salt pork usually), sweating onions and celery in the rendered fat, a touch of flour, followed by milk, potatoes, chopped, and occasionally bottled clam juice. It all gets simmered together with a bay leaf or two until the potatoes are cooked and the broth is thickened. It gets finished with a bit of cream, or perhaps some half and half.

Right off the bat, there are some issues I have with this process—flour-based roux can be pasty, and cooking the clams as long as the potatoes is a surefire path to rubbery clams. These issues would all need to be addressed. But first things first.


How to Make Real New England Clam Chowder | Laboratorija za hranu

Not too thick, not too thin, perfectly creamy, packed with tender clams, salt pork, and potatoes.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

If you've spent any amount of time in coastal New England, you've probably noticed how generously awards are bestowed upon clam chowders. Now I've never met the folks who run these award factories, but I take issue with any organization that passes out praise like flyers.

Having spent my entire life traveling through New England, I've grown accustomed to the fact that nine out of ten "award-winning!" or "#1 voted!" clam chowders are going to arrive at the table either thick as paste, bereft of clams, or packed with clams so rubbery they make your jaws bounce, and unfortunately, most home recipes don't turn up results that are much better. And if finding great chowder in its birthplace is difficult, you can imagine what it's like spolja of New England.

When done right, clam chowder should be rich and filling, but ne sludgy or stew-like. Its texture should be creamy without feeling leaden, like you're sipping on gravy. Tender chunks of potato should barely hold their shape, dissolving on your tongue, their soft texture contrasting with tender bites of salty pork and briny clam god help the clam shack that dare serves rubbery clams in their chowder!

The flavor of a clam chowder should be delicate and mild, the sweetness of the pork complementing the faint bitterness of the clams, accented by bits of celery and onion that have all but dissolved into the broth, fading completely into the background. A good grind of black pepper and a bay leaf or two are the only other seasonings you need, unless you count the requisite oyster crackers as seasoning. I know some Yankees who do.

The Precedents

Chowders have a long, complex, and relatively apocryphal history that can be traced back to the fish and seafood stews eaten in coastal England and France. Like many old dishes, the name of the food stems from the word for its cooking vessel, a large cooking pot or "cauldron," known in French as a chaudiere. Or perhaps it comes from the old English term for a fishmonger jowter, which had been in use in Cornwall since at least the 16th century.

Whatever the etymology, its history can be traced across the Atlantic to the fishing towns of New England—Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford—where the European dish was adapted to work with sea journey-friendly staples like onions, potatoes, and salt pork or beef, along with local ingredients like cod, oysters, and clams.

About a decade ago, I had a job as a cook at B&G Oysters in Boston's South End, a fancy-pants seafood shack run by Barbara Lynch. It was there that I first started taking a serious interest in chowder-making, there that I realized that chowder is ne just the sludgy stuff I'd been raised to believe it was. We made our chowder in the manner of a fancy restaurant—cooking and seasoning each element individually, combining, pureeing, straining, adding, mixing, until our broth was intensely flavored and light, our clams were perfectly tender, and every vegetable cooked just so.

It was delicious, but It's decidedly ne the way a traditional chowder is made a poor man's food meant to take few ingredients and even less effort. I remember thumbing through a copy of 50 Chowders, by Jasper White, in which he unearths New England's oldest-known printed recipe for chowder, from the September 23rd, 1751 edition of the Boston Evening Post:

"Because in Chouder there can be not turning Then lay some Pork in slices very thing, Thus you in Chouder always must begin. Next lay some Fish cut crossways very nice Then season well with Pepper, Salt, and Spice Parsley, Sweet-Marjoram, Savory, and Thyme, Then Biscuit next which must be soak'd some Time. Thus your Foundation laid, you will be able To raise a Chouder, high as Tower of Babel For by repeating o'er the Same again, You may make a Chouder for a thousand men. Last a Bottle of Claret, with Water eno to smother 'em, You'll have a Mess which some call Omnium gather 'em."

Aside from the interesting technique of layering ingredients in a post to stew them and the very Victorian use of spices, the recipe essentially reads "put things in a pot and cook them." One thing you'll immediately notice is that dairy is conspicuously absent from the recipe. Instead, the chowder got its thickness and richness from soaked biscuits. (Note that in this usage, biscuits most likely refer to tough, cracker-like hardtack, not the fluffy leavened biscuits of the American south).

Slowly, as dairy became cheaper and more readily available in the region, it began making larger and larger appearances in chowder, at first simply being used to moisten the biscuit, before eventually completely replacing it as the primary ingredient outside of clams, pork, and aromatics. These days, the biscuits live on in the form of oyster crackers, which as any true chowder-head can tell you, should be added liberally to your bowl and allowed to soften slightly before consuming.

So which is the best way to cook chowder? Can the dump-and-simmer method be improved upon by some modern technique, or is there something to the classic that gets lost when fiddled with too much?

I decided to break it down element by element and really figure out what it is that makes clam chowder tick.

Building a Base

Most basic recipes for clam chowder call for rendering down some form of salted pork (bacon or salt pork usually), sweating onions and celery in the rendered fat, a touch of flour, followed by milk, potatoes, chopped, and occasionally bottled clam juice. It all gets simmered together with a bay leaf or two until the potatoes are cooked and the broth is thickened. It gets finished with a bit of cream, or perhaps some half and half.

Right off the bat, there are some issues I have with this process—flour-based roux can be pasty, and cooking the clams as long as the potatoes is a surefire path to rubbery clams. These issues would all need to be addressed. But first things first.


How to Make Real New England Clam Chowder | Laboratorija za hranu

Not too thick, not too thin, perfectly creamy, packed with tender clams, salt pork, and potatoes.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

If you've spent any amount of time in coastal New England, you've probably noticed how generously awards are bestowed upon clam chowders. Now I've never met the folks who run these award factories, but I take issue with any organization that passes out praise like flyers.

Having spent my entire life traveling through New England, I've grown accustomed to the fact that nine out of ten "award-winning!" or "#1 voted!" clam chowders are going to arrive at the table either thick as paste, bereft of clams, or packed with clams so rubbery they make your jaws bounce, and unfortunately, most home recipes don't turn up results that are much better. And if finding great chowder in its birthplace is difficult, you can imagine what it's like spolja of New England.

When done right, clam chowder should be rich and filling, but ne sludgy or stew-like. Its texture should be creamy without feeling leaden, like you're sipping on gravy. Tender chunks of potato should barely hold their shape, dissolving on your tongue, their soft texture contrasting with tender bites of salty pork and briny clam god help the clam shack that dare serves rubbery clams in their chowder!

The flavor of a clam chowder should be delicate and mild, the sweetness of the pork complementing the faint bitterness of the clams, accented by bits of celery and onion that have all but dissolved into the broth, fading completely into the background. A good grind of black pepper and a bay leaf or two are the only other seasonings you need, unless you count the requisite oyster crackers as seasoning. I know some Yankees who do.

The Precedents

Chowders have a long, complex, and relatively apocryphal history that can be traced back to the fish and seafood stews eaten in coastal England and France. Like many old dishes, the name of the food stems from the word for its cooking vessel, a large cooking pot or "cauldron," known in French as a chaudiere. Or perhaps it comes from the old English term for a fishmonger jowter, which had been in use in Cornwall since at least the 16th century.

Whatever the etymology, its history can be traced across the Atlantic to the fishing towns of New England—Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford—where the European dish was adapted to work with sea journey-friendly staples like onions, potatoes, and salt pork or beef, along with local ingredients like cod, oysters, and clams.

About a decade ago, I had a job as a cook at B&G Oysters in Boston's South End, a fancy-pants seafood shack run by Barbara Lynch. It was there that I first started taking a serious interest in chowder-making, there that I realized that chowder is ne just the sludgy stuff I'd been raised to believe it was. We made our chowder in the manner of a fancy restaurant—cooking and seasoning each element individually, combining, pureeing, straining, adding, mixing, until our broth was intensely flavored and light, our clams were perfectly tender, and every vegetable cooked just so.

It was delicious, but It's decidedly ne the way a traditional chowder is made a poor man's food meant to take few ingredients and even less effort. I remember thumbing through a copy of 50 Chowders, by Jasper White, in which he unearths New England's oldest-known printed recipe for chowder, from the September 23rd, 1751 edition of the Boston Evening Post:

"Because in Chouder there can be not turning Then lay some Pork in slices very thing, Thus you in Chouder always must begin. Next lay some Fish cut crossways very nice Then season well with Pepper, Salt, and Spice Parsley, Sweet-Marjoram, Savory, and Thyme, Then Biscuit next which must be soak'd some Time. Thus your Foundation laid, you will be able To raise a Chouder, high as Tower of Babel For by repeating o'er the Same again, You may make a Chouder for a thousand men. Last a Bottle of Claret, with Water eno to smother 'em, You'll have a Mess which some call Omnium gather 'em."

Aside from the interesting technique of layering ingredients in a post to stew them and the very Victorian use of spices, the recipe essentially reads "put things in a pot and cook them." One thing you'll immediately notice is that dairy is conspicuously absent from the recipe. Instead, the chowder got its thickness and richness from soaked biscuits. (Note that in this usage, biscuits most likely refer to tough, cracker-like hardtack, not the fluffy leavened biscuits of the American south).

Slowly, as dairy became cheaper and more readily available in the region, it began making larger and larger appearances in chowder, at first simply being used to moisten the biscuit, before eventually completely replacing it as the primary ingredient outside of clams, pork, and aromatics. These days, the biscuits live on in the form of oyster crackers, which as any true chowder-head can tell you, should be added liberally to your bowl and allowed to soften slightly before consuming.

So which is the best way to cook chowder? Can the dump-and-simmer method be improved upon by some modern technique, or is there something to the classic that gets lost when fiddled with too much?

I decided to break it down element by element and really figure out what it is that makes clam chowder tick.

Building a Base

Most basic recipes for clam chowder call for rendering down some form of salted pork (bacon or salt pork usually), sweating onions and celery in the rendered fat, a touch of flour, followed by milk, potatoes, chopped, and occasionally bottled clam juice. It all gets simmered together with a bay leaf or two until the potatoes are cooked and the broth is thickened. It gets finished with a bit of cream, or perhaps some half and half.

Right off the bat, there are some issues I have with this process—flour-based roux can be pasty, and cooking the clams as long as the potatoes is a surefire path to rubbery clams. These issues would all need to be addressed. But first things first.


How to Make Real New England Clam Chowder | Laboratorija za hranu

Not too thick, not too thin, perfectly creamy, packed with tender clams, salt pork, and potatoes.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

If you've spent any amount of time in coastal New England, you've probably noticed how generously awards are bestowed upon clam chowders. Now I've never met the folks who run these award factories, but I take issue with any organization that passes out praise like flyers.

Having spent my entire life traveling through New England, I've grown accustomed to the fact that nine out of ten "award-winning!" or "#1 voted!" clam chowders are going to arrive at the table either thick as paste, bereft of clams, or packed with clams so rubbery they make your jaws bounce, and unfortunately, most home recipes don't turn up results that are much better. And if finding great chowder in its birthplace is difficult, you can imagine what it's like spolja of New England.

When done right, clam chowder should be rich and filling, but ne sludgy or stew-like. Its texture should be creamy without feeling leaden, like you're sipping on gravy. Tender chunks of potato should barely hold their shape, dissolving on your tongue, their soft texture contrasting with tender bites of salty pork and briny clam god help the clam shack that dare serves rubbery clams in their chowder!

The flavor of a clam chowder should be delicate and mild, the sweetness of the pork complementing the faint bitterness of the clams, accented by bits of celery and onion that have all but dissolved into the broth, fading completely into the background. A good grind of black pepper and a bay leaf or two are the only other seasonings you need, unless you count the requisite oyster crackers as seasoning. I know some Yankees who do.

The Precedents

Chowders have a long, complex, and relatively apocryphal history that can be traced back to the fish and seafood stews eaten in coastal England and France. Like many old dishes, the name of the food stems from the word for its cooking vessel, a large cooking pot or "cauldron," known in French as a chaudiere. Or perhaps it comes from the old English term for a fishmonger jowter, which had been in use in Cornwall since at least the 16th century.

Whatever the etymology, its history can be traced across the Atlantic to the fishing towns of New England—Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford—where the European dish was adapted to work with sea journey-friendly staples like onions, potatoes, and salt pork or beef, along with local ingredients like cod, oysters, and clams.

About a decade ago, I had a job as a cook at B&G Oysters in Boston's South End, a fancy-pants seafood shack run by Barbara Lynch. It was there that I first started taking a serious interest in chowder-making, there that I realized that chowder is ne just the sludgy stuff I'd been raised to believe it was. We made our chowder in the manner of a fancy restaurant—cooking and seasoning each element individually, combining, pureeing, straining, adding, mixing, until our broth was intensely flavored and light, our clams were perfectly tender, and every vegetable cooked just so.

It was delicious, but It's decidedly ne the way a traditional chowder is made a poor man's food meant to take few ingredients and even less effort. I remember thumbing through a copy of 50 Chowders, by Jasper White, in which he unearths New England's oldest-known printed recipe for chowder, from the September 23rd, 1751 edition of the Boston Evening Post:

"Because in Chouder there can be not turning Then lay some Pork in slices very thing, Thus you in Chouder always must begin. Next lay some Fish cut crossways very nice Then season well with Pepper, Salt, and Spice Parsley, Sweet-Marjoram, Savory, and Thyme, Then Biscuit next which must be soak'd some Time. Thus your Foundation laid, you will be able To raise a Chouder, high as Tower of Babel For by repeating o'er the Same again, You may make a Chouder for a thousand men. Last a Bottle of Claret, with Water eno to smother 'em, You'll have a Mess which some call Omnium gather 'em."

Aside from the interesting technique of layering ingredients in a post to stew them and the very Victorian use of spices, the recipe essentially reads "put things in a pot and cook them." One thing you'll immediately notice is that dairy is conspicuously absent from the recipe. Instead, the chowder got its thickness and richness from soaked biscuits. (Note that in this usage, biscuits most likely refer to tough, cracker-like hardtack, not the fluffy leavened biscuits of the American south).

Slowly, as dairy became cheaper and more readily available in the region, it began making larger and larger appearances in chowder, at first simply being used to moisten the biscuit, before eventually completely replacing it as the primary ingredient outside of clams, pork, and aromatics. These days, the biscuits live on in the form of oyster crackers, which as any true chowder-head can tell you, should be added liberally to your bowl and allowed to soften slightly before consuming.

So which is the best way to cook chowder? Can the dump-and-simmer method be improved upon by some modern technique, or is there something to the classic that gets lost when fiddled with too much?

I decided to break it down element by element and really figure out what it is that makes clam chowder tick.

Building a Base

Most basic recipes for clam chowder call for rendering down some form of salted pork (bacon or salt pork usually), sweating onions and celery in the rendered fat, a touch of flour, followed by milk, potatoes, chopped, and occasionally bottled clam juice. It all gets simmered together with a bay leaf or two until the potatoes are cooked and the broth is thickened. It gets finished with a bit of cream, or perhaps some half and half.

Right off the bat, there are some issues I have with this process—flour-based roux can be pasty, and cooking the clams as long as the potatoes is a surefire path to rubbery clams. These issues would all need to be addressed. But first things first.


How to Make Real New England Clam Chowder | Laboratorija za hranu

Not too thick, not too thin, perfectly creamy, packed with tender clams, salt pork, and potatoes.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

If you've spent any amount of time in coastal New England, you've probably noticed how generously awards are bestowed upon clam chowders. Now I've never met the folks who run these award factories, but I take issue with any organization that passes out praise like flyers.

Having spent my entire life traveling through New England, I've grown accustomed to the fact that nine out of ten "award-winning!" or "#1 voted!" clam chowders are going to arrive at the table either thick as paste, bereft of clams, or packed with clams so rubbery they make your jaws bounce, and unfortunately, most home recipes don't turn up results that are much better. And if finding great chowder in its birthplace is difficult, you can imagine what it's like spolja of New England.

When done right, clam chowder should be rich and filling, but ne sludgy or stew-like. Its texture should be creamy without feeling leaden, like you're sipping on gravy. Tender chunks of potato should barely hold their shape, dissolving on your tongue, their soft texture contrasting with tender bites of salty pork and briny clam god help the clam shack that dare serves rubbery clams in their chowder!

The flavor of a clam chowder should be delicate and mild, the sweetness of the pork complementing the faint bitterness of the clams, accented by bits of celery and onion that have all but dissolved into the broth, fading completely into the background. A good grind of black pepper and a bay leaf or two are the only other seasonings you need, unless you count the requisite oyster crackers as seasoning. I know some Yankees who do.

The Precedents

Chowders have a long, complex, and relatively apocryphal history that can be traced back to the fish and seafood stews eaten in coastal England and France. Like many old dishes, the name of the food stems from the word for its cooking vessel, a large cooking pot or "cauldron," known in French as a chaudiere. Or perhaps it comes from the old English term for a fishmonger jowter, which had been in use in Cornwall since at least the 16th century.

Whatever the etymology, its history can be traced across the Atlantic to the fishing towns of New England—Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford—where the European dish was adapted to work with sea journey-friendly staples like onions, potatoes, and salt pork or beef, along with local ingredients like cod, oysters, and clams.

About a decade ago, I had a job as a cook at B&G Oysters in Boston's South End, a fancy-pants seafood shack run by Barbara Lynch. It was there that I first started taking a serious interest in chowder-making, there that I realized that chowder is ne just the sludgy stuff I'd been raised to believe it was. We made our chowder in the manner of a fancy restaurant—cooking and seasoning each element individually, combining, pureeing, straining, adding, mixing, until our broth was intensely flavored and light, our clams were perfectly tender, and every vegetable cooked just so.

It was delicious, but It's decidedly ne the way a traditional chowder is made a poor man's food meant to take few ingredients and even less effort. I remember thumbing through a copy of 50 Chowders, by Jasper White, in which he unearths New England's oldest-known printed recipe for chowder, from the September 23rd, 1751 edition of the Boston Evening Post:

"Because in Chouder there can be not turning Then lay some Pork in slices very thing, Thus you in Chouder always must begin. Next lay some Fish cut crossways very nice Then season well with Pepper, Salt, and Spice Parsley, Sweet-Marjoram, Savory, and Thyme, Then Biscuit next which must be soak'd some Time. Thus your Foundation laid, you will be able To raise a Chouder, high as Tower of Babel For by repeating o'er the Same again, You may make a Chouder for a thousand men. Last a Bottle of Claret, with Water eno to smother 'em, You'll have a Mess which some call Omnium gather 'em."

Aside from the interesting technique of layering ingredients in a post to stew them and the very Victorian use of spices, the recipe essentially reads "put things in a pot and cook them." One thing you'll immediately notice is that dairy is conspicuously absent from the recipe. Instead, the chowder got its thickness and richness from soaked biscuits. (Note that in this usage, biscuits most likely refer to tough, cracker-like hardtack, not the fluffy leavened biscuits of the American south).

Slowly, as dairy became cheaper and more readily available in the region, it began making larger and larger appearances in chowder, at first simply being used to moisten the biscuit, before eventually completely replacing it as the primary ingredient outside of clams, pork, and aromatics. These days, the biscuits live on in the form of oyster crackers, which as any true chowder-head can tell you, should be added liberally to your bowl and allowed to soften slightly before consuming.

So which is the best way to cook chowder? Can the dump-and-simmer method be improved upon by some modern technique, or is there something to the classic that gets lost when fiddled with too much?

I decided to break it down element by element and really figure out what it is that makes clam chowder tick.

Building a Base

Most basic recipes for clam chowder call for rendering down some form of salted pork (bacon or salt pork usually), sweating onions and celery in the rendered fat, a touch of flour, followed by milk, potatoes, chopped, and occasionally bottled clam juice. It all gets simmered together with a bay leaf or two until the potatoes are cooked and the broth is thickened. It gets finished with a bit of cream, or perhaps some half and half.

Right off the bat, there are some issues I have with this process—flour-based roux can be pasty, and cooking the clams as long as the potatoes is a surefire path to rubbery clams. These issues would all need to be addressed. But first things first.


How to Make Real New England Clam Chowder | Laboratorija za hranu

Not too thick, not too thin, perfectly creamy, packed with tender clams, salt pork, and potatoes.

Fotografije: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

If you've spent any amount of time in coastal New England, you've probably noticed how generously awards are bestowed upon clam chowders. Now I've never met the folks who run these award factories, but I take issue with any organization that passes out praise like flyers.

Having spent my entire life traveling through New England, I've grown accustomed to the fact that nine out of ten "award-winning!" or "#1 voted!" clam chowders are going to arrive at the table either thick as paste, bereft of clams, or packed with clams so rubbery they make your jaws bounce, and unfortunately, most home recipes don't turn up results that are much better. And if finding great chowder in its birthplace is difficult, you can imagine what it's like spolja of New England.

When done right, clam chowder should be rich and filling, but ne sludgy or stew-like. Its texture should be creamy without feeling leaden, like you're sipping on gravy. Tender chunks of potato should barely hold their shape, dissolving on your tongue, their soft texture contrasting with tender bites of salty pork and briny clam god help the clam shack that dare serves rubbery clams in their chowder!

The flavor of a clam chowder should be delicate and mild, the sweetness of the pork complementing the faint bitterness of the clams, accented by bits of celery and onion that have all but dissolved into the broth, fading completely into the background. A good grind of black pepper and a bay leaf or two are the only other seasonings you need, unless you count the requisite oyster crackers as seasoning. I know some Yankees who do.

The Precedents

Chowders have a long, complex, and relatively apocryphal history that can be traced back to the fish and seafood stews eaten in coastal England and France. Like many old dishes, the name of the food stems from the word for its cooking vessel, a large cooking pot or "cauldron," known in French as a chaudiere. Or perhaps it comes from the old English term for a fishmonger jowter, which had been in use in Cornwall since at least the 16th century.

Whatever the etymology, its history can be traced across the Atlantic to the fishing towns of New England—Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford—where the European dish was adapted to work with sea journey-friendly staples like onions, potatoes, and salt pork or beef, along with local ingredients like cod, oysters, and clams.

About a decade ago, I had a job as a cook at B&G Oysters in Boston's South End, a fancy-pants seafood shack run by Barbara Lynch. It was there that I first started taking a serious interest in chowder-making, there that I realized that chowder is ne just the sludgy stuff I'd been raised to believe it was. We made our chowder in the manner of a fancy restaurant—cooking and seasoning each element individually, combining, pureeing, straining, adding, mixing, until our broth was intensely flavored and light, our clams were perfectly tender, and every vegetable cooked just so.

It was delicious, but It's decidedly ne the way a traditional chowder is made a poor man's food meant to take few ingredients and even less effort. I remember thumbing through a copy of 50 Chowders, by Jasper White, in which he unearths New England's oldest-known printed recipe for chowder, from the September 23rd, 1751 edition of the Boston Evening Post:

"Because in Chouder there can be not turning Then lay some Pork in slices very thing, Thus you in Chouder always must begin. Next lay some Fish cut crossways very nice Then season well with Pepper, Salt, and Spice Parsley, Sweet-Marjoram, Savory, and Thyme, Then Biscuit next which must be soak'd some Time. Thus your Foundation laid, you will be able To raise a Chouder, high as Tower of Babel For by repeating o'er the Same again, You may make a Chouder for a thousand men. Last a Bottle of Claret, with Water eno to smother 'em, You'll have a Mess which some call Omnium gather 'em."

Aside from the interesting technique of layering ingredients in a post to stew them and the very Victorian use of spices, the recipe essentially reads "put things in a pot and cook them." One thing you'll immediately notice is that dairy is conspicuously absent from the recipe. Instead, the chowder got its thickness and richness from soaked biscuits. (Note that in this usage, biscuits most likely refer to tough, cracker-like hardtack, not the fluffy leavened biscuits of the American south).

Slowly, as dairy became cheaper and more readily available in the region, it began making larger and larger appearances in chowder, at first simply being used to moisten the biscuit, before eventually completely replacing it as the primary ingredient outside of clams, pork, and aromatics. These days, the biscuits live on in the form of oyster crackers, which as any true chowder-head can tell you, should be added liberally to your bowl and allowed to soften slightly before consuming.

So which is the best way to cook chowder? Can the dump-and-simmer method be improved upon by some modern technique, or is there something to the classic that gets lost when fiddled with too much?

I decided to break it down element by element and really figure out what it is that makes clam chowder tick.

Building a Base

Most basic recipes for clam chowder call for rendering down some form of salted pork (bacon or salt pork usually), sweating onions and celery in the rendered fat, a touch of flour, followed by milk, potatoes, chopped, and occasionally bottled clam juice. It all gets simmered together with a bay leaf or two until the potatoes are cooked and the broth is thickened. It gets finished with a bit of cream, or perhaps some half and half.

Right off the bat, there are some issues I have with this process—flour-based roux can be pasty, and cooking the clams as long as the potatoes is a surefire path to rubbery clams. These issues would all need to be addressed. But first things first.


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