Novi recepti

David Chang službeno će se otvoriti u DC -u

David Chang službeno će se otvoriti u DC -u

Momofukuov David Chang definitivno će otvoriti restoran u svom rodnom gradu u DC -u

David Chang definitivno uskoro stiže u DC!

AŽURIRANJE: Kuhar David Cahng potvrdio je da će definitivno otvoriti Momofuku u svom rodnom gradu, Washington DC. "Nisam bio toliko uzbuđen dugo, dugo", rekao je za Washington.

Restoran će biti njegov najveći do sada na 4.500 četvornih metara, a otvorit će se u Washingtonian -u. Evo što do sada znamo: ova lokacija najvjerojatnije neće posluživati ​​hamburgere i bit će malo eksperimentalnija od njegovih drugih lokacija u Momofukuu. Očekujte nepretenciozan, jedinstven meni koji će, da, definitivno uključivati ​​svinjske lepinje, a možda ima i pileće prste.

David Chang neprestano nagovještava da će otvoriti restoran u svom rodnom gradu, Washington DC, ali na zaprepaštenje mnogih Georgetown-a, to se još nije dogodilo. Prošlo je 10 godina otkako je Chang otvorio svoj sada zloglasni Momofuku Noodle Bar na Manhattanu, umjesto u DC-u. Glasine su cirkulisale neko vrijeme, Chang će uskoro odlučiti da otvori lokaciju u glavnom gradu zemlje, a nedavno se Chang ovim glasinama obratio sa Washington Post da će se otvoriti u CityCenter DC -u.

"Trenutno su to samo želje", rekao je Chang. "Na radaru je, ali ništa nije učinjeno. Ako se to dogodi. Volio bih to, to je sve što mogu reći."

Dakle, to prilično znači da još nema definitivnih planova za otvaranje restorana, ali možemo se nadati.

Za najnovija dešavanja u svijetu hrane i pića posjetite našu Vijesti o hrani stranici.

Joanna Fantozzi je pridruženi urednik časopisa The Daily Meal. Pratite je na Twitteru@JoannaFantozzi


InStyle se odjavljuje: David Chang & rsquos Novi korejsko-talijanski restoran, Momofuku Nishi

ICYMI na gotovo svakom blogu o hrani, Momofuku Nishi, superzvijezda David Cheng i aposs najnoviji kulinarski napitak, službeno je otvorio svoja vrata u naselju N.Y.C. i aposs Chelsea. Ova je iteracija specijalizirana za korejsko-talijansku fuziju —, do sada njegovu najjedinstveniju kombinaciju do sada —, pa smo bili dvostruko uzbuđeni što smo to mogli provjeriti.

Ali neka & aposs ne idemo previše ispred sebe. Prije nego što sam hodočastio na bogoslužje na najnoviji oltar Chang -a, otišao sam na Instagram radi preliminarnog istraživanja (jer koliko bi bilo strašno naručiti najmanje rasprostranjenu stavku menija?). Od otvaranja restorana, Chang je svakodnevno učitavao snimke ponuda Nishija, složenog niza zdjela i tanjura koje je stvorio kuhar Joshua Pinsky, bivši sous kuhar u Momofuku Ko. Kliknuo sam na geografsku oznaku Nishi da vidim u čemu su uživali prethodni gosti, primetivši tešku dokumentaciju o ceci e pepe, predstavi o tradicionalnom italijanskom jelu od testenine cacio e pepe (prevod: sir i biber).

Preko Instagramove mreže ukusnih predjela puni su mutnih snimaka zastrašujuće dugog reda. Linija za ulazak u Nishi, koja se otvara u 18 sati. svakodnevno i trenutno ne preuzima rezervacije, izgledalo je da se proteže na pola puta po 8. aveniji i da se zmiji sve do 22. ulice. U jednom natpisu pokrovitelja čak se spominje četverosatno čekanje na tanjir nježnih pokrovaca u zelenoj juhi harlequina sa shio kombuom i tigrovim mlijekom.

Imajući ovo na umu, moj odani saputnik u restoranu i ja stigli smo do Nishijevih ulaznih vrata u neurotično ranom času u 16:50. — Nije potrebno reći da smo bili prvi u redu. Kolege željne željne hrane počele su dolaziti 20 -ak minuta kasnije. Dok se sve više ljudi okupljalo oko diskretnog prozora (jedina oznaka sastoji se od malog logotipa breskve Momofuku na staklenim vratima), znatiželjni prolaznik je zastao da me pita o čemu se radi —jedna žena nevino se raspitala �ju li besplatno hrana ili nešto? ”

Sedeli smo odmah u 18:00. za jednim od zajedničkih stolova, napravljenim od istog jednostavnog plavog drveta pronađenog u Chang's Noodle Baru i Fukuu. Uz vodstvo naše ljubazne konobarice, Elizabeth i mog prethodnog istraživanja na Instagramu, naručili smo šest stavki s pet odjeljaka menija. Naši predjeli uključivali su nadahnutu bagna cauda od romina i oraha, tanjur hrskavog romskog lišća i nasjeckanih oraha mariniranih u ukusnom domaćem preljevu od slatkog peciva sa rotkvicom od lubenice i božanstvenu zdjelu prženih cijelih škampa, agresivno začinjenih solju, sanshoom bibera i limete, a trebalo je jesti glava do repa, ljuska i sve to. Tako smo i učinili.

Naš drugi kurs bio je jasan vrhunac večeri, koji se sastojao od dva jela sa rezancima iz menija ’s “my ūn ” (rezanci). Pinsky ceci e pepe odriče se klasičnog Pecorino Romano za hozon od slanutka, paste slične misu napravljene od slanutka koji je u kući fermentirao šest do devet mjeseci. Tjestenina, koja je bez mliječnih proizvoda, osim malo maslaca, bila je divno kremasta, orašasta, slatka i savršeno paprena. Moj prijatelj je izjavio da se zbog njega osjeća radosno, kao i prvi dan škole. ”

Složio sam se, iako sam bio zauzet upuštanjem u užasnu ljubavnu aferu sa školjkom Grand Lisboa, zdjelom pečenog chow meina kuhanog u čorbi od školjki, origana i kupusa, a prelivenom maslacem, biljnim školjkama (trenutno omiljena stavka menija Chang ’ kod Nishija). Odmah sam pao na rezance, neke nježne, a druge zadovoljavajuće hrskave. Snažan val tuge preplavio me dok je Elizabeth otjerala naše marljivo očišćene zdjele. Naše posljednje slano jelo u noći bilo je svinjsko rame s bijelim kimchijem, po izgledu i okusu slično kiselom kupusu. Kao i sve što smo jeli, i meso je bilo ukusno, ali pravo izdvajanje bili su rezanci.


David Chang nije siguran da će ugostiteljska industrija preživjeti COVID-19

Od 2004. godine, kada je David Chang pomogao u rekonfiguriranju ideja blagovaonice o tome kakav bi odličan restoran mogao biti s Manhattanskim Momofuku Noodle Bar -om, otvorio je više od desetak restorana širom svijeta koji su ugostili dvije sezone njegove Netflixove dokumentarne serije "Ugly Delicious" započeo hit podcast, "The Dave Chang Show" objavio je ugašeni, toliko omiljeni časopis o hrani "Lucky Peach" i sada je napisao memoare, predstojeći "Eat a Peach", sa koautoricom Gabe Ulla. Čineći sve to, Chang (42) je postao ikona svijeta hrane, proširio je nepce zemlje i učinio nas pažljivijima o tome šta jedemo. Ništa od toga ne pomaže mnogo u napretku nakon ekonomskog uništenja koje je koronavirus nanio u kulinarskom svijetu. "Ni na koji način nisam hiperboličan", rekao je Chang o budućnosti polja u kojem je stekao ime. "Bez državne intervencije neće biti ni uslužne industrije."

Možete li opisati trenutno stanje na svom kraju? Još uvijek pokušavamo to riješiti. Odluku o zatvaranju naših restorana donijeli smo prije nego što je to bilo propisano, a trenutno pokušavamo pronaći najbolji način da pomognemo svojim zaposlenicima. Ni na koji način nisam hiperboličan: bez državne intervencije neće biti ni uslužne industrije. Za mene radi toliko ljudi za koje sam nevjerojatno zabrinut. Gdje će dobiti sljedeći obrok? Imaju li zdravstvenu zaštitu? Kako će platiti račune? Ali ovo je način na koji sam to čudno internalizirao: kao da su vanzemaljci došli iz svemira i odlučili potpuno uništiti restorane. Ne bih bio takav, ne mogu vjerovati da ovo nisam očekivao. Na neki način koronavirus je nevidljivi neprijatelj kojeg nismo mogli predvidjeti. Niko nije mogao.

Šta se sljedeće mora dogoditi za restorane? Možda idemo prema najgorem scenariju. Čak i uz veću intervenciju vlade, bojim se da to neće biti primjereno ljudima kojima je to najpotrebnije. Osećam se kao da je to suprotnost od 2008. godine, kada su pomagali velikim bankama i osiguravajućim kompanijama jer su morali ili svijet kakav smo znali da će se završiti. A sada, 2020., govorimo o „nebitnim“ preduzećima i ljudima koji nemaju moć da mogu razgovarati s vladom. Teško mi je vidjeti kako sve prodavnice mama i tata dobivaju pomoć od vlade.

U idealnom slučaju, kako bi to pomoglo? Više od svega, Davide, ne želim izazivati ​​paniku i histeriju, ali mislim da će za restorane i uslužnu industriju postojati morbidno visoka stopa smrtnosti u poslovanju. Bojim se da će restorani koji opstanu biti veliki lanci, a mi ćemo iskorijeniti vrlo eklektičnu mješavinu koja čini Ameriku i izlaske na jelo tako živahnim i sjajnim. I postoji veliki osjećaj da će čak i u dobrim vremenima, ako kuhari ne mogu izračunati svoj broj, izgubiti sve, pa zamislite što sada moraju osjećati. Kada je ekonomija buoming, restoranima je teško dobiti kredite od banke jer nema imovine koja bi ih podržala. Ne znam da li će biti izvodljivo da vlada da podsticajni kredit restoranu ili grupama restorana na način na koji su to 2008. godine mogli da učine automobilskim kompanijama. Zato pokušavam da shvatim koji je najbolji način. Vlada bi trebala dati veći paket pomoći vlasnicima nekretnina kako bi moglo doći do olakšanja za vlasnike restorana. Mora se pomaknuti prema gore.

I nadati se da će spašavanje vlasnika nekretnina dati restoranima malo prostora za financijsko disanje? Tačno. Većina restorana ne posjeduje svoju nekretninu, pa ako će zatražiti pomoć, to će podrazumijevati pomoć stanodavcima i zajmodavcima koji su viši u lancu. Zatim bi sljedeća stvar koja bi pomogla restoranima bila amnestija dugovanih računa i računa. Ne znam kako se to odvija. Ova industrija ima efekt kapanja u smislu da imate dobavljače, imate poljoprivrednike, imate dostavljače. To je masovno isprepleten, povezan sistem. Dakle, ako restoran ne može platiti račune, to je problem, ali moramo to shvatiti. Postoji toliko mnogo restorana u različitim scenarijima, od onih koji zarađuju 70 miliona dolara godišnje do 5.000 dolara sedmično, a svakom od tih restorana će trebati pomoć jer je stopa sagorijevanja dnevno astronomski velika. Imamo sastojke koji, ako ih ne prodate, doslovno se pokvare. To je najizloženiji posao. Poznajem puno uspješnih kuhara kojima je ostalo pet do devet dana novca. I šta onda radite? Ne znam. I na kraju, mislim da bi svaki ugostiteljski radnik trebao dobiti univerzalni osnovni prihod od 1.000 dolara mjesečno ili minimalno 500 dolara ili šta god da ostane na površini. Povrh toga, svi oni moraju imati neku vrstu zdravstvene zaštite. Verovatno se tako nešto mora dogoditi. Ali ne očekujem da će vlada zaista reagirati na bilo što od toga.

Video sam da je Bela kuća imala poziv sa predstavnicima ugostiteljske industrije, i bilo je McDonald's, Papa John's Sve Trumpove [ekspletive] koje jede svakodnevno.

Imate li razloga vjerovati da će Bijela kuća reagirati na nezavisne restorane? Zato je važno šta jedete! Ljutim se zbog ovoga zbog toga što Trump govori o imigrantima, Meksikancima, Kinezima - svakome ko nije u njegovom krugu, zašto bi mu bilo stalo do njih? Ako njega nije briga za njih kao ljudska bića, zašto bi mu bilo stalo do hrane koju proizvode? Ali slušaj, ako odluči pomoći svima, možda je to jedini put u životu da ga želim zagrliti i poljubiti. Ako su Momofuku i restorani poput Le Bernardina, Daniela Bouluda i Dannyja Meyera izloženi i u teškim situacijama, ne mogu zamisliti strah od nekoga ko je upravo otvorio restoran ili nekog imigranta koji je u ovu zemlju došao prije pet godina koji se tek otvorio picerija i ovo je njihov američki san.

Šta je s ljudima koji žele pomoći restoranima do kojih im je stalo? Mogu li oni išta učiniti? Pozovite svoje predstavnike. Morat ćemo morati da naše vodstvo donosi odluke za ljude čiji glas možda ne predstavljaju uvijek. I podržite svaki restoran koji vrši dostavu. Kratkoročno rješenje je kupiti što više možete u restoranu. Ako ova stvar ide tako loše kao što ide, krajolik će se zauvijek promijeniti. Biće to potpuno novi svet.

Postoji li trajan pomak prema isporuci i od restorana u restoranu u tom novom svijetu? Da. Ne zvuči bešćutno, ali to je to. Mislio sam da će se ta promjena dogoditi u sljedećih 10, 15 godina, a to nitko ne bi primijetio jer bi se to dogodilo postupno. Ova promjena će se dogoditi trenutno. Nisam siguran kako to izgleda. Ista pitanja dostave ostat će: ko dostavlja hranu i koja vrsta hrane se isporučuje.

Govorili ste na svom podcastu o tome kako se isporuka hrane već mijenja utoliko više što ljudi pokušavaju isporučiti kvalitetnu hranu koja nije samo pizza ili kineska. Šta bi ta ubrzana promjena značila za ugostiteljsko poslovanje? Vidim potpuno uništenje restorana srednje marketa, restorana mama-i-pop. Ako isporuka može biti model koji je održiv i ljudi mogu raditi manje sati i imati bolju ravnotežu, to je nešto što bismo trebali istražiti. Zaista sam zabrinut za ovu industriju. Ponekad su kuvari umiješani u prodaju lažne robe. Niko vam nije rekao šta će se dogoditi na kraju duge. Nema duge. To je kao glamuriziranje kao radnik na naftnoj platformi ili rudar. Da, ima ljepote i uspjeha, ali uglavnom je kuhanje težak posao i smeta mi što ne postoji bolji način za to.

Šta bi moglo biti bolje? Uz isporuku imate dva potpuno različita svijeta: svijet tehnologije i svijet restorana. Svijet tehnologije je sve o skaliranju i bacanju novca na nešto. Ali ne možete u potpunosti automatizirati kuhanje. Možda neko hoće. Zabrinut sam kako to izgleda. Da li bih volio biti kod kuće i biti kao boop, pritisnite dugme i dobićete nešto ukusno? To bi bilo nevjerojatno, ali me i plaši. Ne bismo trebali živjeti na ovaj način.

Mislite s očekivanjem skoro trenutnog zadovoljstva? Da, ako samo razmišljamo o mesu - možda bi trebalo biti izuzetno skupo, a ako je skupo, vjerojatno ćemo se odnositi prema tome kako Japanci kuhaju govedinu. Vrlo tanko, vrlo nježno, a jesti ga je slavlje. Kao ljudi, ne želimo patiti. To nije u našoj DNK. Prirodno je da želimo uživati ​​u trenutnom zadovoljstvu, i to je sve [pojasnilo]. Čak i danas odresci uklanjaju prostoriju za starenje jer ljudi ne žele vidjeti meso. Nekada su meso prevozili ljudima. Sada je to nestalo. Ne želimo da nas podsjećaju na patnju. Samo mi donesi hranu. Ljudi čak i ne znaju odakle im hrana, a to je metafora za mnoge naše probleme.

Neosporno je da je mnogo Amerikanaca sada otvoreno za hranu za koju možda nisu bili otvoreni u prošlosti, što se čini kao očigledan pozitivan rezultat porasta interesa za kulturu hrane u ovoj zemlji. Je li u tom porastu postojala negativna strana? Čudno je da u povijesti svijeta nitko nikada nije znao više o hrani od ove generacije. Razgovaram s mlađim ljudima koji poznaju različite vrste kimčija. To mi ne prestaje zbunjivati ​​um. Pa šta mi radimo s tim znanjem? To moraju biti dvije škole. Potrebni su vam ljudi koji će pokušati održati tradiciju. Imate ljude koji kuhaju hranu i koji su zanatlije. Kao Anthony Mangieri u Una Pizza Napoletana. Ima nešto religiozno u tome. Divim se više od svega u ovom svijetu hrane, biti poput Dom DeMarca. Ali onda imamo sve ove druge stvari i svi rade isto. Trebali bismo vidjeti najluđe stvari. Mi smo i dalje konzervativna zemlja sa biftekom i krompirom i to me muči. Manje je preuzimanja rizika. To je u redu ako želite biti zanatlija, ali manje je ljudi koji to žele raditi.

Kako bi izgledala alternativa zemlji sa biftekom i krompirom? Svaka zemlja ima svoje osnove. To je odlično pitanje. Za mene valjda glasi: Kako pronalazimo otvorenost? Toliki dio mog života je zbog pakla koji sam doživio kao klinac. Mnogo toga je izgledalo, koliko god glupo izgledalo, Oh, Chang, jedeš psa, ili jedeš kaknu, ili ti kuća miriše. Sve ove stvari. Ono što me muči kod bifteka i krompira - a ja volim biftek, volim krompir, volim ih zajedno - je kad ljudi ne žele da probaju ništa drugo. Plaši me to kratkovidno gledište. Ako naučim nešto cijeniti, onda mi to bolje omogućava da razumijem tuđu kulturu.

Koja je veza između više ljudi koje zanima kultura hrane i averzije prema riziku koju ste upravo spomenuli? Kad govorimo o hrani, gotovo uvijek se govori o tome koliko je sjajna, koliko je dostupna. Ali kako doći do mjesta gdje to ima značenje?? Tolika pristupačnost možda otupljuje našu sposobnost da cijenimo stvari. Razmišljam o stvarnim trenucima, kao kad sam popila prvi svježe cijeđen sok od naranče. Odrastao sam s tim smrznutim stvarima. Tada okusite svježe cijeđeno i shvatite, ovo je sok od pomorandže. Ali to je bila rijetkost. Sada je to nešto što možete imati svaki dan. Ta pristupačnost - ne bismo trebali imati sve.

Mislite li da su vam još preostale inovacije? Pa da. Ono u čemu želim biti bolji jest osigurati da mogu pripremiti druge ljude da mogu ispričati svoje priče. Taj proces je tako težak i na neki način sve što želim je ukloniti tu borbu. Takođe shvatam da bi to bio najgori mogući oblik roditeljstva. Posvađao sam se sa mamom - ovo je tangenta. Mama se naljutila na moju ženu i mene. Bila je kao da Hugo plače. Zašto ne ideš u sobu? Ona je došla iz generacije koja je bebi sve potrebno, tu ste. Ali Grace i ja bili smo zbijeni u susjednoj prostoriji gledajući u monitor: Trebamo li ući? Trebamo li ući? Ovo je najgore. Ovo je najgore. Idem unutra. Ne, ne možeš. Biti tamo, ali ne intervenirati - to je tako teško.

Prema vlastitim memoarima, vi ste bili užasan šef dugo vremena. Apsolutno. Bio sam nezreo i totalni kreten i razvio sam ogromnog ega. Želim istjerati [psovke] iz sebe jer nisam bio bolji. O tome se radi u godinama terapije. Ne mogu se ljutiti na sebe što nisam savršena - koliko god ću i dalje biti ljuta na sebe.

Mačističko, usijano ponašanje za koje ste mislili da je prihvatljivo u kuhinjama - je li to rezultat toga što ste kupili cijeli mit o genijalnom muškom kuharu? U kuhinjama vas uče da je sve što nije izvrsno neprihvatljivo. Jedino što je važno je učiniti ga savršenim. Dakle, šta biste trebali učiniti kada vam kažu da ovako trebate voditi kuhinju? Sigurno je bilo ljudi koji su bili dobro, to je glupo, ali ja nisam imao taj uvid. I kako sam odgojen: sranje, sranje, sranje. Bolje mi ide kad me viču. Cijeli život su me vikali. Bio sam uslovljen da bolje radim kad me viču. Ovo može biti potpuno neprikladno za poređenje, ali kao da ste zaglavljeni u vjerskom domaćinstvu, kako biste trebali znati da postoji još nešto?

Okvirno uređujete stvari na pomalo sličan paradigmatski način kada u svojoj knjizi govorite o #MeToo -u i svijetu hrane, uključujući Mario Batali. Vaš zaključak je bio da niste sigurni jeste li u neznanju ili želite biti u neznanju. Ali pitam se biste li sada mogli ponovno razmotriti to pitanje: Zašto ste propustili znakove? Kad pomislim na Marija ili Kena, osjećao sam se kao brucoš u srednjoj školi, a to su stariji. Sviđa vam se: Ovako je to. Borim se sa svim ovim. Mario je bio jedan od razloga zašto Momofuku nije izašao iz posla. Dolazio bi na ručak s političarima, poslovnim ljudima, poznatim ličnostima, umjetnicima. Ali zašto nisam rekao nešto kad se našalio ili spojio tačke? Bilo je dosta obrade. Moramo sebe smatrati odgovornim.

Jeste li poduzeli korake da to učinite? Prije par godina bili ste tema diskriminacija u trudnoći navod. Bio sam toliko zaposlen pokušavajući biti u pravu da nisam gledao kako da poboljšam stvari. Bio sam [ekspletivan].

Postoje li određene stvari koje ste implementirali ili na koje možete ukazati u smislu poboljšanja radnog mjesta za žene? Mislim da smo upravo pokušali izgraditi najbolju moguću kompaniju. Želim izgraditi što inkluzivnije moguće radno mjesto. To je cilj kojem svi trebamo težiti i u kojemu moramo biti bolji. Mislim da dajemo sve od sebe i ne znam šta drugo možete reći o tome.

No, daje li najbolje što možete prevesti u određene politike koje ste implementirali? Očigledno činimo sve što možemo sa politikama. Za mene, mi smo inženjering. Kako doći do mjesta gdje se ljudima sviđa kada su na poslu i ne govore negativno o mjestu sa svojim prijateljima? I umjesto toga, oni su poput: Ovo je sjajno! To je cilj, učiniti ga inkluzivnim i učiniti ga jednakim. To se mora dogoditi.

U svojoj knjizi govorite o tome da ste imali suicidalne misli. Imate li ih još? Hm, puno. Mislim da ne postoji dan koji se ne dogodi. O tome pričam sa svojim doktorom. Čudno je ovo verbalizirati ne mom psihijatru nego vama. To je samo više poput egzistencijalnog straha. Ono na čemu trenutno radim je ono što se dogodi kada u nekom trenutku više ne želite gurati stijenu uz brdo. Brinem se za taj dan i šta će se dogoditi kada ga mnogi vaši heroji nazove prekidom, bilo da je u pitanju Tony Bourdain ili Dave Berman. Čudan je način na koji sam odredio puno sreće. Puno toga je Camus: Sreća je reći ne. Odbijam. Brinem se šta će se dogoditi ako to više ne želim raditi. Da, imam bogate veze koje bih imao i učinio bih sve za svoju porodicu - ali moja depresija je poput A.I. -a, i postajem sve pametniji kako postajem svjesniji. Ono što se događa kada ljudi postanu depresivni je sve što mislite da mislite o sebi u odnosu na svijet jer ste se odvojili od svega ostalog, a onda to počinje uništavati vaš osjećaj vrijednosti, vaš osjećaj identiteta. Na kraju prolazim kroz to i mogu se centrirati. Sve vam govori da prestanete, ali nikada ne morate odustati. Morate se pokupiti i pronaći neke osnove. Znam da zvuči ludo, ali samo morate progurati.

Je li kuhanje nešto što može pomoći u rješavanju ovih problema? Mislim da su ljudi izgubili ideju zašto neko kuha za nekog drugog: želim da se osjećaš dobro. Želim da pojedeš nešto ukusno. Možda te i ne poznajem, ali evo zdjele ljubavi. Neki dan sam napravio Hugo sockeye losos. Usitnila sam ga, a zatim sam spanać i brokoli pomiješala s malo maslaca. Nikada u životu nisam kuvao kod kuće. Ikad. Biti u stanju to učiniti bilo je kao, oh, ovo to bi trebalo biti kuhanje.

Koja hrana vam daje utjehu? Izdanci graška sa belim lukom i malo pileće čorbe i činija pirinča. Stavio sam malo MSG -a u njega, i bilo je odlično. Dakle, trenutno je bilo puno izdanaka snježnog graška i mnogo bikova sa čorbama i supama. Sada samo kuvam kao baka. Volio bih imati restoran u kojem se osjećate kao kod kuće. Kako otvoriti restoran u kojem samo pružate ljudima to?

David Marchese je pisac i kolumnista časopisa Talk.

Ovaj intervju je uređen i sažet radi jasnoće iz tri razgovora.


Rana riječ o Momofuku CCDC -u

Momofuku CCDC otvoren je neočekivano prije manje od tri sedmice, nakon što je dva dana prije toga otvorena sestrinska pekara Milk Bar. Poznati kuhar i vlasnik David Chang objavio je to putem Instagrama.

Do tada su predstavnici restorana šutjeli o detaljima poput koncepta, menija, pa čak i datuma otvaranja. Trenutni jelovnik dijeli nekoliko jela s Momofuku Noodle Bar -om u New Yorku, ali ima i neke ponude ekskluzivne za DC. Postoje četiri vrste lepinja (uključujući svinjetinu, škampe, prsa i shiitake gljive) i grickalice poput svinjskog mesa i svinjskih kora Old Baya. . Uključuje i čuveni Čangov ramen.

DC lokacija Momofukua odmah je privukla vrane i linije, ali stvari su se smirile otkad su počele prihvaćati ograničene rezervacije. No, restoran i dalje ima 63 kritike Yelpa s ukupnom ocjenom od tri i pol zvjezdice. Čitajte dalje za prvu riječ o Momofuku CCDC -u:

Izuzetno neugodne vijesti: Momofukuovi minimalistički drveni stolovi i glatke površine smetaju nekim gostima. Chowhound poster cfoodie kaže: "Kad je sjeo, ličio je na stalak za rezance pored puta u Aziji, sjedeći na čvrstoj stolici čvrsto zbijen, na koga su drugi i serveri stalno nailazili." Yelper Ben O. se slaže. On piše: "Ne samo da su drvene ploče na kojima sjedite izuzetno neugodne, nego i uske kutije, ali garantiraju da ćete udarati laktovima sa svojim susjedom." [Chowhound, Yelp]

Precijenjene i precijenjene vijesti: Postoji i nekoliko zamjerki oko cijena, uključujući raspravu na forumu Don Rockwell o nekim cijenama točenog piva koje prelaze 10 USD po čaši. Yelper Sean D. piše: "Ovo mjesto je ludo precijenjeno za ramen brze hrane (17 dolara)", a Yelper Joyce F. ga proglašava "precijenjenim i precijenjenim". Korisnik Facebooka Jack O’Neill piše "Ukusna hrana-ali iako troškovi nisu bili problem na ovom nivou, još uvijek nisu dobra vrijednost za ono što dobijete." [DR, Yelp, Facebook]

The Pork Buns vs. Brisket Buns News: Twitter korisnik @BTMenu preferira lepinje od Čungovih čuvenih svinjskih peciva, ali Don Rockwell poster Mark Dedrick izjavljuje: "Svinjske lepinje i lepinje od škampi i gtbrisket lepinje, ali sve tri su bile odlične." Tim muža i žene koji stoji iza bloga DC Wrapped Dates podijeljen je po pitanju. On piše, "svinjske lepinje su joj omiljene i tradicionalnije - trbuh koji se topi u ustima sa poznatom solju hoisina i ukiseljenim krastavcem. U međuvremenu više volim verzije prsa sa njihovim suptilnim dimljenim okusom usklađenim sa svijetlim majonezom . " [Twitter, DR, DC zamotani datumi]

Stick to Daikaya za R amen Vijesti: Većina zalogajnica više voli druga ramen mjesta DC -a od poznate Momofuku zdjele rezanci. Korisnica Foursquare -a Kristine Untalan piše: "Momofuku ramen je bio u redu, ali idite u Sakuramen ako vam se žudi." Blogger DC Wrapped Dates kaže ". U usporedbi s nekim suvremenicima, juha ovdje izgleda pomalo tanka i sa jednom notom." Blogger Cook In/Dine Out piše: "Rezanci su imali žvakaću teksturu koja (ali ne nadmašuje) ramen u Daikayi. " [FS, datumi premotani DC -om, kuhanje/objedovanje]

Juha od goveđih rezanci savršena je vijest: Neki gosti, poput Yelpera Roberta C., misle da je ova juha čak i bolja od poznatog ramena. Korisnik Instagrama @junkfoodguy kaže da je jelo bilo "savršenstvo", a blogerka Cook In/Dine Out naziva ga "ukusnim". Ona nastavlja: "Rezanci su bili malo tanji od ramena, ali su bili jednako žvakaći. Juha je bila intenzivno goveda i poput svinjetine u ramenu, grudnjak je došao pripremljen na dva načina: narezan i narezan." [Yelp, Instagram, Cook In/Dine Out]

Superlative Rockfish News: Jedan od favorita za izbijanje je morska riba sa yuzuom. Bloger DC Wrapped Dates piše: "Ovo je bilo superlatno u svakom pogledu. Nije teško reći da je to jedna od najboljih stvari koje smo jeli cijelu godinu. Prekrasna mješavina citrusa i slatkog s nježnom teksturom morske ribe trebala je umrijeti za "Yelper Catharine M. kaže:" Bio je to odličan balans i savršen ", dok Yelper Geith M. piše:" Riba je bila super svježa, a okusi živahni. Čvrsto jelo. " [DC zamotani datumi, jelp]

Vijesti o začinjenim krastavcima: Don Rockwell poster Lhollers naziva začinjene krastavce "izvanrednima", a bloger Cook In/Dine Out kaže da jelo "efikasno spaja rashladne sposobnosti hladnih komadića krastavca sa začinskim umakom od susama i mladim lukom, a stiže preliveno sjeckanim prženim bademima." Yelper Mark F. piše: "Kombinacija hladnog, hrskavog krastavca, zelenog umaka koji pecka jezik i hrskavog preljeva od oraha stvara ovisnost. Uvijek ću ga imati i bit će ga opet." [DR, Kuhanje/objedovanje vani, jep]

Svinjske kore starog zaljeva su preslane vijesti: Don Rockwell forum poster lhollers kaže da je ovo novo jelo najslabije koje je probao. On objašnjava: "komadi su ogromni i glomazni, bez puno začina." Yelper Jennifer W. kaže da su "previše slani", ali Yelper Bryan L. kaže "nisu tako loši". [DR, Yelp]

Keksi bi trebali biti na ustima Vijesti: Yelper Anita C. piše: "Bog blagoslovio zalogaje keksa. Zaista. Briga me ako izgledaju kao da im nije mjesto na jelovniku. Jedino gdje bi trebali biti su vaša usta." Jelo je također bilo omiljeno blogerici Jasmine Chan Eats, a Yelper Liz N. kaže da su "TO-DIE-FOR". [Yelp, Jasmine Chan jede]

Kako se to upoređuje sa New York News: Yelper Sammy P. kaže, "zaista sam se nadao da će mu se svidjeti ovo mjesto, ali možda su svoje recepte ostavili @ kući u New Yorku", ali Yelper Alice W. kaže: "Odličan obrok, mnogo bolji od mog iskustva u Ma Pecheu u New Yorku. David Chang se držao svog isprobanog i istinskog menija, što mi je drago. " Blogger Cook In/Dine Out ima nijansiraniji odgovor. Ona piše: "Ovo također nije bio najbolji Momofuku obrok koji smo ikada jeli-ta čast i dalje pripada našoj predivno nezaboravnoj večeri u Ma Pecheu. To znači da su moja velika očekivanja u velikoj mjeri ispunjena našom prvom posjetom." Kuhar in ručati van. "[Yelp, Cook In/Dine Out]


Užasno vkusno

U potrazi za umopomračitelnim jelima Déjv se šalje u Mumbai, Sidnej, Stambul i druge gradove, istovremeno pripremljen sa svojim samim većim priručnikom - članak na portalu.

Detskoe menû

Sljedeća ocjena Déjv se obraća za savjete o tom pitanju, kao što je slučaj s domom i poslom, a zatim može kupiti pripremiti dječju edu.

Éto ne karri

Znajući, ništa ne smije misliti u indijskoj kuhinji, Déjv se obraća za pomoć Azizu Ansari i Padme Lakšmi i šalje se u zahtijevajuću pjesmu u Mumbaiju.

Stejk

Déjv s druzʹâmi poseŝaet skotovodčeskie fermy, restorany s vysokoj kuhnoj i stejk-haus «Outbék», dlâ otkrytiâ sožnuû socialʹnuû dinamiku narezki govediny.

Kak vraŝaetsâ mâso

Ovlašćenje mâsom na verteli nadahnjuje Déjvu da se zagleda u klinarnu laboratoriju i uvidi, kako su naizmenično izmenili istoriju kulinarije.

Путешествуя с друзьями, признанный шеф-повар Дэвид Чанг дарит легендарным блюдам новое интересное исполнение и раскрывает удивительные взаимосвязи разных культур.

Пицца

Пока пуристы в Бруклине и Неаполе отстаивают классические рецепты пиццы, креативные повара в Японии и по всему миру заново открывают секреты лучшей выпечки.

Любители тако знакомят скептика Дэйва с морем вкусового разнообразия в автокафе Лос-Анджелеса, закусочных с тако в арабском стиле и выездном ресторане «Нома» в Мексике.

Домашняя еда

Дэйв и Питер Михан помогают готовить обед семьи Ченов на День благодарения, обсуждая свои самые сильные детские впечатления о еде.

Раки и креветки

Разочарованный упрямой консервативностью шефов Нового Орлеана, Дэйв отправляется в полный иммигрантов Хьюстон пробовать острую смесь вьетнамской и каджунской кухни.

Барбекю

Пока Питер исследует разнообразие вкусов американского барбекю, Дэйв пробует фантастическую утку по-пекински, якитори и корейское барбекю.

Жареная курица

Дэйв познает секреты приготовления острой курицы по-нашвилльски, изучает китайское меню KFC и погружается в богатый мир соул-кухни.

Жареный рис

Забудьте про печенья с предсказаниями и цыпленка генерала Цо: секретные пункты в меню, местные деликатесы и гора омаров покажут истинное великолепие китайской кухни.

Паста или пельмени?

Время решающего противостояния: итальянская паста с начинкой или азиатские пельмени? Что же победит: сяолунбао или тортеллини?


Contents

With experience in restaurants in New York City, Chef David Chang opened up his first restaurant in 2004, Momofuku Noodle Bar. It was influenced by his time spent working in Japan and visiting ramen shops. [3] After about a year of trials, Noodle Bar took off as a success when the chefs began cooking what they felt like — more adventurous dishes with better ingredients. [4] Growing, Noodle Bar eventually moved up the street, and Momofuku Ko took over the space.

Momofuku Ssäm Bar opened after Noodle Bar and originally had the concept of an Asian-style burrito bar (ssam is Korean for wrap). [5] After experiencing troubles, Chang and his cohorts decided to change the style of the menu, away from the burrito-centered cuisine. This change led Ssäm Bar to success, as it received two stars (eventually three) from The New York Times. [6]

The third restaurant to open was Momofuku Ko. Chang describes the idea behind Ko as a "cook-centric restaurant with just a few stools, a collaborative kitchen, and a constantly changing menu." [7] Má Pêche was the fourth restaurant to open and the first to open outside of the East Village neighborhood.

Momofuku Seiōbo in October 2011 was the first restaurant to open outside of the U.S. [8] In January 2012, Momofuku opened the cocktail bar Booker & Dax in the back of Ssäm Bar in collaboration with Dave Arnold. [9] Momofuku Toronto followed in 2012 alongside the opening of the Shangri-La Hotel. [10] Fuku, a chicken sandwich restaurant, opened in the original Noodle Bar location in June 2015. [11]

Doing office work for Ssäm Bar at the time, pastry chef Christina Tosi began the desserts program at the three Momofuku restaurants, first at Ssäm Bar, then Noodle Bar, and then Ko. [12]

The first Momofuku Milk Bar started in the laundromat next to Ssäm Bar. After a year and a half, a second Milk Bar opened in Midtown, in the Chambers Hotel. [13] In November 2010 the Williamsburg, Brooklyn kitchen opened to accommodate the growth of Milk Bar. [14] On September 24, 2011, Milk Bar opened its fourth location on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. [15] In March 2012, Milk Bar opened a fifth location in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, and its most recent, sixth, location opened in SOHO in September 2014. [16]

In April 2018, Momofuku signed a deal with Kraft Heinz to start selling their chili sauce in American grocery stores. [17]

Momofuku Noodle Bar [18] was the first Momofuku restaurant it opened in August 2004. It serves ramen, seasonal dishes, and a variety of buns. [19]

Since opening in 2006, Momofuku Ssäm Bar [20] has been listed as one of The World's 50 Best Restaurants for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012. [21] Weekday lunches feature an all-rotisserie duck menu. [22] Booker and Dax (the bar at Ssäm) is open late serving drinks made with new techniques and technologies.

Momofuku Ko [23] opened in March 2008. [24] At Momofuku Ko (ko means "child of"), guests sit along a kitchen counter and are served by the cooks. Dinner is a set tasting menu devised by the chef, Sean Gray, and his aides-de-cuisine. It is usually about 10 courses long [25] at lunch the menu stretches out to 16 courses. Since opening in 2008, Momofuku Ko has earned two Michelin stars, which it has retained for eleven years. [26] Ko is No. 70 on the San Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants list. [27]

Má Pêche ("mother peach") is in Midtown Manhattan in the Chambers Hotel. [28] Má Pêche opened in 2010 with co-owner and executive chef, Tien Ho, with Chef Paul Carmichael taking the reins in October 2011. [29] This change prompted a shift in Má Pêche's cuisine from French-Vietnamese to American. [30] Má Pêche includes a midtown outpost of Christina Tosi's bakery, Momofuku Milk Bar.

Fuku is a casual chicken concept by Momofuku. Originally started as a fried chicken sandwich joint, Fuku has since grown to serve various chicken and seasonal offerings, along with beer, slushies, and more. Fuku has locations in the East Village, Wall St, Madison Square Garden, Citi Field, and the Seaport in South Boston. [31]

Seiōbo is Momofuku's first restaurant outside of New York City. [32] In Sydney, it opened at The Star Casino in late October 2011. [33] "Seiōbo" (Japanese: 西王母 ) is the Japanese pronunciation for the traditional Chinese "goddess of the West", who is known in mythical stories, such as Journey to the West, as owning the celestial peach orchards. Momofuku Seiōbo has two hats from The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide and was named Best New Restaurant. [34]

In 2012, David Chang opened Momofuku Toronto, Momofuku's first location in Canada. [35] It is in a three-story glass cube on University Avenue in Downtown Toronto and is home to Noodle Bar, Nikai, Daishō and Shōtō. [36]

Noodle Bar is on the ground floor and is a sister-restaurant to the one the same name in New York City. The menu features bowls of ramen and a roster of dishes like steamed buns and rice cakes. The restaurant is home to a custom piece of art created by Steve Keene. [36] Nikai is a bar and lounge on the second floor of Momofuku Toronto. The menu features cocktails, beer, wine, and sake. Guests can order items from both the Noodle Bar and Daishō menus. [36] Daishō is on the third floor. The menu features large-format meals meant for parties of 4–10 guests and an à la carte menu that includes dishes to share. [36] Shōtō is in the Daishō dining room on the third floor. Shōtō serves a roughly 10-course tasting menu that is based on market availability. Guests are seated along the counter and served by the chefs. [36]

Momofuku CCDC opened in October 2015 and is Chang's first restaurant in the Washington, D.C. area and the first in the United States outside of New York. It is in the downtown CityCenterDC development. The restaurant includes a Milkbar location. [37]

Momofuku Milk Bar, under the direction of pastry chef Christina Tosi, is based in New York City and has several locations in the cities of Washington and Toronto. [39] [40]

Momofuku Nishi (which means "west") opened in January 2016 and is Momofuku's first restaurant on the west side. In New York City's Chelsea neighborhood, guests can choose from à la carte offerings for lunch or dinner.

Momofuku Las Vegas is Momofuku's first restaurant in the western U.S. It is inside of The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas. The menu draws influence from all over the world, including the U.S., Korea, and Japan. The constantly evolving menu features steamed buns, noodles, and meat and seafood meant for sharing.

In 2009, David Chang, Peter Meehan, Gabriele Stabile and the Momofuku team produced the Momofuku kuharica. It features recipes and photographs from Momofuku Noodle Bar, Momofuku Ssam Bar, Momofuku Ko, and Milk Bar. The cookbook was a New York Times Best Seller. [41] [42]

Written by Christina Tosi with a foreword by David Chang, the Momofuku Milk Bar cookbook was released in October 2011. Christina Tosi included her recipes for Cereal Milk, Crack Pie, the Compost Cookie, and other popular Milk Bar desserts. [12]

Scraps is a limited edition collection of outtakes and artwork from the Momofuku cookbook photographer, Gabriele Stabile. [43]

From 2011 to November 2013, Lucky Peach, [44] a quarterly journal of food writing, was published by McSweeney's. [45] [46] Since then, it has been self-published. [47] Lucky Peach was then created by David Chang, Peter Meehan, and Zero Point Zero production.

The first issue of Lucky Peach centered on ramen. [48] The second issue, "The Sweet Spot", included articles on the neurobiology of how the brain detects sweet foods. This issue was a New York Times Best Seller. [49] [50] [51] The third issue, "Chefs and Cooks", was also a New York Times Best Seller. [52] [53]

The fourth issue of Lucky Peach was about American food. [54] The fifth issue was about Chinatown and was released in November 2012. [55] The sixth issue was centered on the theme of the apocalypse and was published in January 2013. [56] The seventh issue of Lucky Peach was about travel. Released in May 2013, the issue featured one of Christopher Boffoli's "Big Appetites" photographs as its cover image. [57] The eighth issue centered on the idea of gender in the food world. [58]

In March 2017, Lucky Peach announced it would cease publication after printing a double issue in the fall of 2017. [59] Meehan stated that the shuttering of the publication was due to its partners' differences in creative direction and financial strategy. [60]


Podijeli All sharing options for: David Chang Talks Tipping, Minimum Wage, and Chicken Sandwiches

Neilson Barnard/Getty Images

This week chef David Chang of Momofuku fame sat down with Vox.com's Ezra Klein for an episode of The Ezra Klein Show, a new Vox Media podcast. Chang spent a lot of the hour comparing his restaurant and business to a sports team and looking back on his younger, more careless days, but he also looked into the future of dining and his business and brand. Here, now, are the more enlightening bits:

Chang on recipe patents, specifically pegged to the Bagel Bomb rip off : "I want to say that we should have some patent ability . but I don't know. I think about this sometimes when I listen to music . and I'm like 'well, is that so different from coming up with a recipe?' And then I look at fashion and that's an industry where people copy left and right, and you can't really patent anything in fashion except the brand. . It makes me mad sometimes. It doesn't make sense why music should have it but food can't."

On the surprise of his career: "I had just the right amount of naiveté to know what I could or couldn't do. Just enough fine dining experience . the reason I left fine dining was I knew I was never going to be good enough. So I knew I had to find something else."

On what he looks for in hiring people: "The right amount of talent is barely enough . cooking is about failure. Repetition of failure. The more you fail, the more you learn. A sense of humility is so important."

On his view of his job: "There are days when I don't want to do this. There are literally five or 30 minutes every day where I don't want to do it."

Chang on paying his chefs a more decent wage: "Socially and politically I'm pretty damn liberal. Socially — I wouldn't say I'm a socialist but I'm behind everything we're doing, what the government's doing [raising the minimum wage] I would also want. But as a business owner, it doesn't make any fucking sense. . It's painting us in a corner and there's no room to grow. The $15 min wage in New York, 100 percent behind that. But . again in theory you having people — I don't know how they're making this calculation . I'm afraid of what's going to happen. A good fine dining restaurant could do like 2 to 5 percent margins, fast food 10 to 20 percent. So, anything over 10 percent is a good year . the wages are going to really cut into the margins. I don't think people understand it is a labor of love."

On the dawn of the no-tipping era: "The next two years are going to be very, very telling of the future of the culinary industry. [We have] a perfect example at Nishi. My servers are getting paid anywhere from $30 an hour let's say. There's 10 to 15 of them. That's a lot in terms of wages. If you have overtime, that's time and a half. You might need them to come in during daytime hours . for education of wine, general service stuff. That can't happen anymore. They have to come in 30 min before service starts [and we're losing that training time]."

Further on tipping: "I believe the no-tipping policy is forcing restaurants — which is why I have to explore it, because it could make it better. It's tough because the servers are getting capped out. They could be making a lot more if they were taking tips. . A lot of variables that have to be discovered, in terms of the size and scope of the restaurant, the comfortability factor. If you have a 150-seat or 200-seat restaurant, you can get away with some stuff. My fear is the medium-sized restaurant, from 50 to 75 seats, it's just too hard to run, we might see the extinction of it. That could be a result of labor. You need a certain number of people to run a restaurant. I don't know if the numbers are going to work."

On how he's going to make his concepts work and pay chefs more: "The breakthrough is going to have to come through growth and expansion in other ways. We're going to roll out Fukus and try to open more Milk Bars. . I think that just size can give you the buffer to direct a lot of those savings back to your employees. The no-tipping is great, but I'm still reserving my judgment until I see it work. Right now I think it works for a certain kind of restaurant. I don't know if it works for all restaurants. I'd love to go to [the New York state legislature in] Albany and say, 'Listen guys, I think it's fantastic, but can we create some provisions for this rule?'"

On the sports team analogies: "I view Momofuku as more of a sports team. It's like the Spurs or the Patriots, cheating excluded. To get through the harder parts, it's like running a sports franchise. In terms of finding talent, growing it, the culture you groom from, and all the business components to making money. A lot of teams don't make money, but TV deals make money."

On management: "Near 1,000 people work at Momofuku. To be honest I'm terrible at [management]. It's really hard. I feel like I'm good at talking to someone in the kitchen . but I feel like I live in the HR hot zone. Managing people is really hard, and it's not something that comes naturally to me."

Why Chang had to pause his R&D program: "At a certain point when you're growing you can't have these R&D expenditures. We had sat on all of these ideas that were so good, and I was like well we have to sell them. At the time the restaurants weren't incorporating the ideas we were creating."

On sustainability in farming: "I wrestle with this a lot, the sustainability factor. But right now there's so much big business in farming. . I have to really figure that out. Meat is really expensive right now. This goes back to the topic of wages. Food is going to have to get more expensive [if we want to pay our people more]."

Listen to the whole episode to hear more about Chang's focus on pig and veal farming, agribusiness, food education in school, vegetarianism, fermentation, and books that have inspired his career and daily life.


Our premier physicians and providers and staff want to make sure you are touched by our culture of both excellence and innovation. Integrated Dermatology is always introducing new treatments to combat your skin concerns. Our board-certified expert physicians and providers will work with you to determine which services are best for you.

We want to educate all of our patients of the lead procedures and products that produce remarkable results. Technology, science and art come together to make us the lead cosmetic dermatology practice.


Podijeli All sharing options for: FUKUSANITY: First Impressions From Sietsema and Sutton

Fried chicken sandwich and fries at Fuku. All photos: Nick Solares

This morning David Chang birthed his newest Momofuku baby, Fuku, a spicy chicken sandwich shop in the old Ko space that he hopes to grow into a fast casual empire. Eater was on the scene, both critics in tow, and it's time to hear their first reactions.

Here's what Robert Sietsema has to say:

The new David Chang fast food-style fried chicken sandwich has been unveiled…and it’s damn good! A crisp plank of irregularly shaped thigh meat grandly protrudes from a bun that has been slathered top and bottom with a thin layer of what looks and tastes like mayo. Three pickle chips cavort underneath. The sandwich has been described as "spicy," but to chileheads it will seem just barely so. A bottle of red Ssam Sauce lingers on the side — a sort of Korean ketchup — but who needs it? The chicken is formidably crusty, without being soddenly so, and there’s nothing better than one of these sandwiches hot out of the grease. The best part: the faint perfume of Scotch bonnet peppers infuses the crust, sending the thing spinning in a Caribbean direction. And nobody who ate one of the first this morning didn’t want to eat another one right away.

There are antecedents, of course. This is above all an engineered product, from the oddly configured bird patty, to the large size of the patty compared to the squishy potato roll it comes on, extending to the spare garnishment. It was engendered partly by all those chicken biscuits Brooklyn has been peddling lately, but also by the Korean chicken chains, though thankfully without the sweetness. And using habanero rather than red chile flakes provides an inspiring extra vector of flavor. Chik-Fil-A provided inspiration, too, as did Danny Meyer’s Shake Shack.

One thing Fuku and Shake Shack have in common is their comparative contempt for fries. Shake Shack uses treated crinkle cuts, and recently reneged on a promise to provide better ones, while Fuku serves steak fries, the world’s worst type of fries, which seem to have been par-baked before being fried, thus giving them an interior texture of instant mashed potatoes. The reason for this is clear. All eyes should be on the sandwich, and if people came for excellent fries rather than the sandwich, the place would’t be deemed the same success. This might be called the Five Guys Effect: most people I know go there for the fries rather than the burgers.

There’s a grain salad, too, oddly dotted with canned mandarin oranges and tasting like it was borrowed from Dimes. Not bad with its bright orange dressing — if you feel you have to eat something healthy, that is.

So 11 years after David Chang starting selling steamed pork buns for $5 at the original Momofuku Noodle Bar, he's hawking fried chicken sandwiches in the same space, now branded Fuku, for $8. That's a pretty good deal when you consider that a) he was selling $125 tasting menus at this location in the intervening years b) the Noodle Bar pork buns will now set you back $10. In other words, he's coming back to his roots. He's coming back to cheap.

This fast-casual space — Danny Meyer calls it "fine casual" — is a pretty exciting space to watch these days because it's giving critically acclaimed chefs like Jose Andres (Beefsteak), Mark Ladner (Pasta Flyer), and Brooks Headley (Superiority Burger) an opportunity to bring seasonal vegetables, humanely raised meats, and all sorts of delicious, semi-high end foods to consumers who might've otherwise gorged on "junk food" but who are looking for something more refined than McDonalds or Chick-Fil-A. These consumers are often novice gourmands who might not be prepared to spend $30 or $50 on a sit down dinner. Many of us in the food writing community were those same consumers a decade ago, clamoring to get into the original Momofuku Noodle Bar, a cheap haven for delicious, ambitious food in an overpriced city. So Fuku, like Shake Shack, stands well positioned to be the gateway drug to the world of eating in good restaurants — to the world of paying more for good food, sourced from sustainable methods, and served by people who are hopefully well compensated.

That's another way of saying there's a lot riding on this chicken sandwich. And for those who care about prices, that $8 is a bit more than a Shake Shack burger, which will run you $5.19 in New York. The good news is that Chang's sandwiches, in the opening hour of Fuku, are close to perfect.

The sandwich came out precisely 10 minutes after the order. That's longer that it would take to get a spicy sandwich at Wendy's, but shorter than at a sit-down restaurant.

The first thing you notice is the lopsided ratio of meat to bread. The chicken spills out of the bun like an oversized bao it's a giant, uber-American version of the Momofuku pork bun. This means you get bites of pure poultry. And the poultry is glorious. The outside is about as crunchy as a deep-fried chicken, without that overly dense bite one might encounter with a deeper skillet fry. The flavor, even though you're eating thigh meat (versus a Chick-Fil-A breast), is neutral. This isn't the funky poultry apotheosis we're dealing with here. This is about the thigh carrying the flavor of the spices. And those spices are good, recalling the KFC spicy fried chicken wings I used to eat on Sundays while watching America's Funniest Home Videos. These are flavors from the pre-YouTube era.

That's another way of saying there's a lot riding on this one chicken sandwich

The spices and the heat creep up on your palate quickly then dissipate about 15 seconds later. It's nowhere near as spicy as Paul Carmichael's old habanero fried chicken at Ma Peche.

The meat is juicy, with a thick, strip steak-esque layer of fat on one side, giving some bites a gorgeous, gummy chew. Those accustomed to the soft, spongy bite of a chicken McNugget won't like this, but I do. It's the type of texture you'll encounter when eating chicken at the Michelin-starred Tori Shin, where the beauty isn't so much the intrinsic flavor of the chicken (yakitori joints don't tend to get too funky with their birds) but the way the meat feels in your mouth. Sometimes it's chewy. Sometimes it's cartilaginous. Sometimes there's a hint of crunchy bone. No bone here at Fuku, but the satisfying chew can recalls the prized neck meat of a chicken crossed with a Japanese style karaage. Righteous.

Does it all taste better with pickles and the buttery bun? Not necessarily, but that's no more a complaint than saying your pulled pork is served on white bread. Remove the bun just as you'd remove a heavy sweater on a hot day and eat the meat by itself.

Fries come with for $12. Don't get them, because they're KFC-style steak fries, or wedges, which are universally accepted to be an inferior form of fry. Funny, we have Danny Meyer at Shake Shack, serving some of the country's best fast food burgers, and David Chang at Fuku, one of our country's great chefs, selling a game-changing chicken sandwich, and neither establishment offers fries that are any good. So be it.

The right side order at Fuku isn't the fries but the salad, a mix of farro, mandarin oranges, and anise-y shio. The cool grains and sweet citrus cleanse your palate well after a few bites of fatty, juicy chicken. Add a bit of the sweet-spicy Ssam Sauce (or the included Hibachi-style dressing) for moisture. When this joint goes late night, which it eventually will, the salad will be your go to-order when wasted, something clean and easy for your stomach to digest, instead of something fried and fatty for your stomach to eject.

So there you go. You might not see a Momofuku Noodle Bar or a Momofuku Ko open up in Des Moines, Iowa, anytime in the next decade, but I like to think we'll see Fukus cropping up across our fruited plane very soon, serving excellent chicken sandwiches to Americans who'll giggle when they intentionally mispronounce the name.


Makes one 6" layer cake Servings

Korak 1

Zagrijte pećnicu na 350 °. Line a 13x9" rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and coat with nonstick spray set aside.

Step 2

Whisk flour, baking powder, salt, and ¼ cup sprinkles in a large bowl. Combine buttermilk, oil, and vanilla in a medium bowl.

Step 3

Using an electric mixer on medium-high, beat granulated sugar, shortening, butter, and light brown sugar in another large bowl until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, beating to blend between additions and occasionally scraping down sides and bottom of bowl. Continue to beat mixture, occasionally scraping down sides and bottom of bowl, until almost doubled in volume and very light, airy, and pale yellow, about 4 minutes.

Step 4

With mixer on low, add buttermilk mixture until incorporated. Add dry ingredients, beating until just combined, about 1 minute.

Korak 5

Scrape batter into prepared pan smooth top. Sprinkle with remaining 2 Tbsp. sprinkles. Bake until cake is light golden brown, the center springs back when gently pressed, and a tester inserted into the center comes out with a few moist crumbs attached, 30–35 minutes.

Korak 6

Remove cake from oven and cool on a wire rack or, in a pinch, in the fridge or freezer (don’t worry, it’s not cheating).

Korak 7

Do ahead: Store cooled cake wrapped in plastic in fridge up to 5 days.

Crumbs:

Step 8

Preheat oven to 300°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper set aside.

Korak 9

Combine flour, granulated sugar, light brown sugar, sprinkles, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Add oil and vanilla, and using your hands, mix until no dry spots remain and large clumps form when mixture is pressed together. As though you were making a crumble topping, break mixture up into clusters (some small, some large) and spread onto prepared baking sheet. Bake, stirring occasionally, until crumble is light golden brown and crunchy, 10–12 minutes (it will firm up as it cools). Pustite da se potpuno ohladi.

Step 10

Do ahead: Wrap crumbs tightly in plastic and store at room temperature up to 5 days.

Frosting and assembly:

Step 11

Combine butter, shortening, and cream cheese in large bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high until mixture is smooth and fluffy, 2–3 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl and slowly stream in corn syrup and 1 Tbsp. vanilija. Beat until mixture is silky smooth and glossy white, about 3 minutes.

Korak 12

Scrape down sides of bowl and, with mixer on low, add powdered sugar, salt, baking powder, and citric acid until just combined. Increase speed to medium-high and beat until you have a brilliant stark white, beautifully smooth frosting, about 4 minutes (it should look just like it came out of a plastic tub at the grocery store!).

Korak 13

Do ahead: Store frosting in an airtight container in fridge up to 1 week.

For the assembly:

Korak 14

Place a silicone baking mat or piece of parchment on a counter. Invert cake onto mat, then peel off parchment. Use cake ring to punch out two 6" rounds from cake (or, using a springform pan as a guide, cut out 2 rounds using a paring knife). These are your top 2 cake layers (the remaining cake scraps will form the bottom layer of the cake).

Korak 15

Line a sheet pan with a clean piece of parchment. Clean cake ring and place it in center of the pan. Use 1 acetate strip to line inside of cake ring. Place cake scraps inside ring and use the back of your hand to press scraps together into a flat, even layer (you never see this layer, so it’s okay that it’s messy—but since it’s the base of the cake, it needs to be flat).

Step 16

Combine milk and remaining 1 tsp. vanilla in a small bowl. Dunk a pastry brush in milk mixture and use half of it to generously moisten the base layer.

Korak 17

Use the back of a spoon to spread about 3 Tbsp. frosting evenly over cake. Sprinkle ⅔ cup birthday crumbs evenly over frosting. Use the back of your hand to press them in place. Use the back of a spoon to spread another 3 Tbsp. frosting as evenly as possible over crumbs.

Korak 18

With your index finger, gently tuck second acetate strip between cake ring and the top ¼" of the first acetate strip, so that you have a clear ring of acetate 5–6" tall—high enough to support the height of the finished cake. Top with a cake round (if 1 of your 2 cake rounds is less pretty than the other, use it for the middle layer and save the most perfect one for the top). Brush layer with remaining milk mixture. Repeat frosting-crumb layering process.

Korak 19

Nestle remaining cake round into frosting. Cover top of cake with remaining frosting. Use an offset spatula to form decorative swirls, or do as they do at Milk Bar and shape it into a perfectly flat top. Top with remaining birthday crumbs.

Korak 20

Transfer cake to freezer and freeze at least 3 hours to set cake and filling.

Korak 21

At least 3 hours before serving the cake, pull sheet pan out of freezer and, using your fingers and thumbs, pop cake out of cake ring. Gently peel off acetate and transfer cake to a platter or cake stand. Defrost in fridge at least 3 hours.

Step 22

Do ahead: Cake will keep up to 2 weeks in freezer or 5 days in refrigerator.

How would you rate Momofuku Milk Bar’s Birthday Layer Cake?

Contrary to the negative comments, this cake is just fun! Granted it isn’t a fancy dessert such as a Paris Brest but it’s an enjoyable Birthday Cake. I’ve made it a few times and always gets the happy reaction ! With the leftover cackle scraps I make cake truffles. It’s just a delightful extra! The cake is super -sweet and goes well with a nice cuppa tea or coffee for the adult and a big glass of milk for children. The addition of the pinch of citric acid to the frosting gives a nice hint of tartness. The cake itself is moist. The crumb is good to munch on. I’ve made many desserts from Tosi’s Milk Bar Cookbook and even my Parisien husband who is EXTREMELY particular about his desserts will indulge in a small slice! Cakes, as people, shouldn’t take themselves too seriously.

This cake is insane. I've made many-a-cake in my day, and while this is not the most elaborate cake I've ever made it is in the top three for sure. I made it for my nephew's birthday last year and WOW is it sweet. Incredibly sweet. I love sweets and candy and anything with sugar but I gotta say, this is hurt your teeth sweet. A few bites is all that most people will want, but kids love it. It's a really fun cake to make and super pretty. Worth giving it a try if you're considering it. I'm going to use the crumb recipe in some birthday cake cookies soon. They're also good in vanilla ice cream!

Do not make at altitude. I don’t even know why I’m giving this two stars instead of one. I made the cake, crumbles, and frosting earlier today. When I took the cake out of the oven? Devastation. The whole middle, like everything except the two outermost inches, was totally sunken down to a half inch. I thought maybe my baking powder had gone old, so I opened a brand new one. Remade the cake, again following to the letter. Exact same results. I didn’t open the oven until 30 minutes was up, didn’t bang the pan around, just barely incorporated the dry ingredients, whipped for the requisite amount of time. this cake just does not work if you live at altitude, period. I can’t believe I made this garbage twice, and now I have 2 disgusting, sunken, oily-looking cakes, as well as a full batch of icing and crumbles I don’t even want to look at anymore. I invested literally 6 hours of my day to make and remake this cake. Uf.

All the moving parts make the process a little overwhelming, but in the end the cake came together very nicely. It still looks cute if it's a bit dodgy and it tastes amazing regardless. In fact, this cake was so good that my ex asked his (unsuspecting) new gf to make it for his birthday! But you know what they say - Bake a man a cake, and he'll forever ask his subsequent girlfriends to make the same intricate cake.

Does anyone have any recommendations as to the measurements so you can make it into a one layer cake instead?

I followed the recipe to a T, and it did not rise at all.

I have made this recipe 3 times in the last 2 weeks. I wanted to work on the look of the cake and decide on which type of vanilla is best - also - quarantine. When the cake is completely done, (and frozen & unfrozen), the imitation vanilla taste is best. Even with the video, it took me a minute to really ‘get’ the fact that this is not supposed to be an elevated dessert taste - it’s a party cake. The instructions for this cake may seem complicated at first, but it is really very simple and straightforward. The end result is a cute little cake with lots and lots of sprinkles. It is incredibly sweet, so a little 6” cake can serve 8-10 people. I also ordered myself a set of 6” silicone cake pans for the 3rd attempt which made assembly a snap. The edges are a little chewier this way but it was much less hassle.

I just have to laugh about the person below me complaining about "thin privilege". B*tch. Šta? Health, fitness, these are things that you work for. Unless you have some serious health issue preventing you from being thin, there aren't many, weight is not arbitrary. You weren't created fat. Eat less, or stop complaining about it. We know Portland is the capital of being annoying but, please, get over yourself.

What is this "fat girl moment" comment about in this video? Do you think that's cute, relevant, or a good idea at all coming from two ladies with thin privilege?

As long as you are aware that this cake is WAY too sweet, it's exactly what youɽ expect. I made this for a birthday and it was a big hit. Most people loved it, but could only handle a petit slice because of the richness. If I make this cake for my fat self, I prefer to make the cake recipe without the frosting and snack on it or mix it with ice cream. The cake can hold its own without the frosting - it's moist and delicious!

Napravio ovo za moj rođendan bf ' i svidjelo mu se! Jedina promjena koju bih napravio je da koristim sav puter umjesto da napola skratim pola maslaca u glazuri

Na osnovu komentara, ovaj kolač izaziva podjele. Mislio sam da je to jedan od najboljih kolača koje sam ikada napravio. Moj muž je to nazvao umjetničkim djelom i rođendanskom tortom velikog slova B. “Kad bih mogao zalogaj rođendanske torte, to bi bila ova torta. Ako pojedem cijeli komad, želim drugačiji kolač. ” Preklinjem da se razlikujem. Zaista nevjerojatno.

Duh kolača je zaista zabavan, ali većina dodatnih sastojaka je veća kako bi kolač postao stabilan nakon zamrzavanja. Shvaćam, ali smatram da je obrnuto inženjering torte u tortu sa standardnim slojem bilo zabavnije nego slijediti upute.

Slijedeći korake u ovom receptu, dobit ćete kolač koji izgleda potpuno poput onog na slici. Lepo i zabavno. Međutim, lošijeg je okusa od 1980 -ih u kutijama sa umjetnim okusom, sa okusom funfetti kolača sa glazurom od konzerviranog krem ​​sira, blistajući sa svim transmasima nekada. Žao mi je ako ovo izaziva nostalgična sjećanja iz djetinjstva na rođendansku tortu kod određene generacije. Nadam se da ćeš jednog dana to moći preboljeti. Svaka komponenta sama po sebi nije imala odličan okus, a zaista je trebalo. Kolač je bio vrlo sladak, ali pomalo suh i gorak od umjetnih boja u prskanju i umjetnog ekstrakta vanilije. Natapanje mlijeka s dodatnim umjetnim ekstraktom vanilije nije pomoglo pri okusu. Mrvica je u početku bila ukusna, posebno smeđi komadići, ali gorčina umjetnih boja i ekstrakta ponovno je preuzela nakon nekoliko zalogaja. Mraz je bio oštar, i to ne na dobar način. Bilo je to, u najboljem slučaju, čudno. Kao otvaranje kontejnera iz frižidera, mirisanje i/ili kušanje nekoliko puta, a zatim pitanje: "Da li je ovo još uvijek dobro?" ali lijepo i zabavno za pogledati) je ubica nepca. Ako vam sve ovo zvuči kao da se sjećate osamdesetih, svakako krenite dalje! Ali za mene je život prekratak da bih jeo lošu rođendansku tortu.

Ovo je najbolji kolač ikada. Ovo sam napravio prije 4 godine kad sam imao 9 godina i ispalo je SAVRŠENO! Christina je MEEEEEE i moram je upoznati! Volim ovo jako puno. Definitivno preporučujem.


Pogledajte video: Chef David Chang on Food Critics, New Show u0026 His Parents (Novembar 2021).