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Dnevno jelo: Michelinov vodič daje zvijezdu pogrešnom restoranu

Dnevno jelo: Michelinov vodič daje zvijezdu pogrešnom restoranu

Michelinov vodič daje zvijezdu pogrešnom restoranu

The Bouche à Oreille cafe u Bourgesu, Francuska, odjednom je preplavljen novinarima i gurmanima, nakon Michelin vodič slučajno mu je dodijelio zvijezdu, prema The Telegraphu. Michelinova zvijezda je zapravo trebala otići u mnogo ljepši restoran, koji se takođe zove Bouche à Oreille, u Boutervilliers -u, u blizini Paris. "Odjednom smo požurili s nogu", rekla je vlasnica Véronique Jacquet za The Telegraph. “Dolazili su reporteri, a onda me sin nazvao iz Pariza, gdje živi. Skoro je umro od smijeha. ” Greška se dogodila samo na web stranici Michelin Guide -a, ali ne i u štampanom izdanju, ali je bila dovoljna da izazove zabunu.

Papa poručuje svima da prestanu slati poruke tokom obroka

Mobiteli su bitan dio života mnogih ljudi, ali Papa želi mlade ljude sklonite ih tokom večere. Prema The Local, u petak Papa Franjo obraćao se mladoj publici na univerzitetu u Rim, kada im je to rekao tokom telefonskog razgovora večera će uništiti društvo. "Kad smo za stolom, kada razgovaramo s drugima putem telefona, to je početak rata jer nema dijaloga", rekao je on. Papa je okupljenim mladim ljudima rekao i da su današnja djeca previše ležerna sa svojom djecom maniri i trebali bi više paziti da budu tiši, manje pričaju i više slušaju ljude oko sebe.

Prema istraživanju Margarita Day, 20 posto Amerikanaca voli Margarite

Nacionalni dan Margarite je 22. februara, a prema istraživanju provedenom od 1.000 ljudi NationalToday.com, jedan od pet Amerikanci je samozvani ljubavnik margarite. Samo 10 posto je reklo da ih ne voli koktel, a 7 posto je izjavilo da nikada nisu probali a margarita. Što se tiče načina na koji Amerikanci uzimaju svoje margarite, njih 14 posto ih preferira smrznuta za razliku od 8 posto koji im se sviđaju na kamenju - dok preostalih 78 posto tvrdi da toliko vole margarite, ne mogu se odlučiti koja je bolja.

Japan izmišlja namaz od kave za tost

Premjesti se avokado i Nutella: Japan je smislio način da to učini ljudima tako namazati kavu direktno na tost ujutro. Prema Rocket News 24, Japanska kompanija Megmilk Snow Brand Company poznata je po hladnoj, mliječnoj kafa piće koje je jedan od najpopularnijih proizvoda kompanije već 55 godina. Sada je kompanija pretvorila napitak od kave u namaz nalik Nutelli. Dizajnirano je za stavljanje tost, hleb, i peciva, pa se čak i prijavljuje da jeste kofein.

Kupci moraju dodatno platiti za punjenje telefona u ovom frustriranom kafiću

Jeste li ikada bili krivi što ste kupili jedan mali kafa u kafiću i sjedite par sati da napunite telefon? Starbucks može pružiti besplatne bežične stanice za punjenje, ali u jednom kafiću Beč je dojadili su mušterije koje koriste njihov sok. The Terrassen Cafe nalazi se unutar Hundertwasserhausa, čuvenog živopisnog stila Austrijski znamenitost koju je dizajnirao pokojni umjetnik Friedensreich Hundertwasser i naplaćuje 1 euro (oko 1,07 USD) za svakog korisnika koji telefon puni više od 15 minuta. "Ja vodim kafić, a ne internet kafić", vlasnica Galina Pokorny rekao je Reutersu. "Postaje sve ekstremniji. Ljudi dolaze i misle da je sve dostupno i besplatno ... Čak ni ujutro ne otvarate oči besplatno."


Michelin preuzima grad, nekima daje loš ukus

Osim toga, nekoliko dragocjenih Njujorčana čak je i vidjelo prvi Michelinov vodič koji će ocjenjivati ​​gradske restorane: sutra se prodaje po cijeni od 16,95 dolara. No, već u inbred petrijevoj zdjelici koja je Gotham's foodie mélange, novi vodič je uzrok selebre.

& quotSvijet restorana je užurban. Ljudi jedva čekaju da se dočepaju knjige ", rekao je Malcolm M. Knapp, čija konsultantska kuća u restoranu nosi njegovo ime. & quotAli oni nisu pobijedili 't se nužno slažu sa knjigom. Kakvu biste drugu reakciju očekivali od Njujorčana? & Quot

Novi vodič procjenjuje 507 restorana, od kojih je samo 39 dobilo oznake s jednom, dvije ili tri zvjezdice.

Bien sûr, za neke od restorana bogata crvena Michelinova naslovnica bila je kulinarska zastava koja se vijorila na poslovičnog bika. & quotZaboravljajući vlastito mjesto, samo pogledajte spisak odličnih restorana koji nisu označeni zvjezdicom, rekao je Tony May, vlasnik San Domenica, talijanskog restorana u Central Parku South koji ima dvije zvjezdice iz New York Timesa i ocijenjen je ove godine među 10 najboljih restorana u gradu prema časopisu New York. Uvršten je u Michelin, ali nema zvjezdicu.

"Ovi odabiri su diskreditacija samog Michelinovog vodiča širom svijeta", rekao je gospodin May, "budući da će dugoročno ljudi iz Evrope biti razočarani datim ocjenama."

Mon Dieu, neki su čak otkrili i dašak francuske arogancije i ponižavanje samog New Yorka. "Nema sumnje u razumne gurmane da je ovo grad -restoran broj 1 na svijetu, a to je zbog naše velike raznolikosti", rekao je Bob Lape, sedmični kritičar hrane za Crain & New York Business i dnevni kritičar WCBS-AM. & quotIpak pokušavaju nas umanjiti. U kategoriji zvijezda nema Kineza, Meksikanaca, Grka, Španjolskog, Indijca, Tajlanđana, Vijetnamca. & Quot

Dodao je: & quotOdakle dolaze? Francuska, pretpostavljam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, direktor vodiča, insistirao je na tome da "zasad definitivno postoji pozitivna reakcija", rekao je da "ne dolazimo ovdje bahato, mi ulazimo ponizno." Smatramo da je raznolikost njujorškog kulinarskog iskustva vrlo dobro zastupljena. & Quot

"Vodič nije u kamenu", rekao je. & quotLjudi bi to trebali zapamtiti. & quot To će se revidirati svake godine.

Ali gospodinu Lapeu, letimična analiza otkrila je da je "quotit jako iskrivljen francuski." G. Naret je insistirao da "quotwe ne traži nacionalnost kuhara, već ono što je na tanjiru." On je rekao da su restorani sa tri zvjezdice & quotare nisu francuski. Oni su evoluirali. & Quot

Certainement, vodič je našao podršku, posebno među favoriziranim, poput Josepha Bastianicha, vlasnika Babboa i pjegave svinje, koji su osvojili pojedinačne zvijezde. & quotWe 'srećni smo što ih imamo, & quot; rekao je, & quot; ali niko zaista ne razumije parametre. Teško je igrati igru ​​ako ne znate pravila. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, konsultujući glavnog kuhara u restoranu Les Halles na Manhattanu, rekao je da je njegova reakcija "da se diplomatija služi i da se red vrati u univerzum".

"Mislim da se Michelin jako trudio da pronađe ugodnu sredinu, i pravda je zadovoljena", dodao je. "Ducasse se ne srami", rekao je za Alaina Ducassea, koji je dobio tri zvjezdice, i navodno Thomas Keller dobiva svoje zaslužene tri. Najbolje od svega, Eric Ripert dobiva trostruku krunu, "rekao je o tri Michelinove zvjezdice kuharu Le Bernardina, koji je također dobio najbolje ocjene od vodiča Zagat i The New York Timesa.

Oui, ali restoran gospodina Bourdaina nije ostao bez zvjezdice. "Nismo očekivali da ćemo biti u Michelinu", rekao je. & quot; Mi smo generički francuski restoran. & quot

Gospodin Knapp, konzultant u restoranu, ponudio je supion potvrde onima koji ne mogu sasvim razumjeti zašto bi nekoliko pohvala francuske kompanije za proizvodnju guma sa pneumatskom maskotom mogle dobiti takvu važnost. Za gradske stanovnike i domaće turiste, rekao je, Michelinov vodič će imati "mali utjecaj na poslovanje".

"U prvoj godini života restorana, New York Times ima veći utjecaj od bilo kojeg drugog vodiča, uključujući Zagata", rekao je. & quotNo s vremenom, Zagat je moćan. & quot

S obzirom na izvor ocjenjivanja - preporuke gostiju i#x27 preporuka - & quotZagat predstavlja demokratiju, dok Michelin predstavlja ekskluzivnost & quot ;, dodao je on.

Gospodinu Lapeu, davanje quotstar jedan je od težih dijelova našeg poslovanja, ali čitatelji svakako znaju kako to nadoknaditi. & Quot

& quotNaprimjer, & quot; rekao je, & citira javnost da ste generalno ljubazni, mogli bi oduzeti nešto, razmatrajući vašu recenziju. & quot

Međutim, same ocjene imaju neizbježnost. "Gledajte, neko će vam dati ocjenu, baš kao što će se talasi razbiti na plaži", rekao je gospodin Bourdain.

Za najstrastvenije lovce na restorane, međutim, zvijezde mogu biti besmislene. "Ljubitelji prve noći vole tamo stići, zbog blagog otvaranja, a zvijezde su u tom trenutku preuranjene", rekla je Joanna Pruess, autorica kuharske knjige i savjetnica, koja je supruga gospodina Lapea. & quotNakon toga? Zvijezde mi ne znače mnogo - jer se često ne slažem & quot


Michelin preuzima grad, nekima daje loš ukus

Osim toga, nekoliko dragocjenih Njujorčana čak je i vidjelo prvi Michelinov vodič koji će ocjenjivati ​​gradske restorane: sutra se prodaje po cijeni od 16,95 dolara. No, već u inbred petrijevoj zdjelici koja je Gotham's foodie mélange, novi vodič je uzrok selebre.

& quotSvijet restorana je užurban. Ljudi jedva čekaju da se dočepaju knjige ", rekao je Malcolm M. Knapp, čija konsultantska kuća u restoranu nosi njegovo ime. & quotAli oni nisu pobijedili 't se nužno slažu s knjigom. Kakvu biste drugu reakciju očekivali od Njujorčana? & Quot

Novi vodič procjenjuje 507 restorana, od kojih je samo 39 dobilo oznake s jednom, dvije ili tri zvjezdice.

Bien sûr, za neke od restorana bogata crvena Michelinova naslovnica bila je kulinarska zastava koja se vijorila na poslovičnog bika. & quotZaboravljajući vlastito mjesto, samo pogledajte spisak odličnih restorana koji nisu označeni zvjezdicom, rekao je Tony May, vlasnik talijanskog restorana San Domenico na Central Parku South koji ima dvije zvjezdice iz New York Timesa i ocijenjen je ove godine među 10 najboljih restorana u gradu prema časopisu New York. Uvršten je u Michelin, ali nema zvjezdicu.

"Ovi odabiri su diskreditacija samog Michelinovog vodiča širom svijeta", rekao je gospodin May, "budući da će dugoročno ljudi iz Evrope biti razočarani datim ocjenama."

Mon Dieu, neki su čak otkrili i dašak francuske arogancije i ponižavanje samog New Yorka. "Nema sumnje u razumne gurmane da je ovo grad -restoran broj 1 na svijetu, i to zbog naše velike raznolikosti", rekao je Bob Lape, sedmični kritičar hrane za Crain & New York Business i dnevni kritičar WCBS-AM. & quotIpak pokušavaju nas umanjiti. U kategoriji zvijezda nema Kineza, Meksikanaca, Grka, Španjolskog, Indijca, Tajlanđana, Vijetnamca. & Quot

Dodao je: & quotOdakle dolaze? Francuska, pretpostavljam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, direktor vodiča, insistirao je na tome da "zasad definitivno postoji pozitivna reakcija", i rekao da "ne dolazimo ovdje bahato, mi ulazimo ponizno." Smatramo da je raznolikost njujorškog kulinarskog iskustva vrlo dobro zastupljena. & Quot

"Vodič nije u kamenu", rekao je. & quotLjudi bi to trebali zapamtiti. & quot To će se revidirati svake godine.

Ali gospodinu Lapeu, letimična analiza otkrila je da je "quotit jako iskrivljen francuski." G. Naret je insistirao da "quotwe ne traži nacionalnost kuhara, već ono što je na tanjiru." On je rekao da su restorani sa tri zvjezdice & quotare nisu francuski. Oni su evoluirali. & Quot

Certainement, vodič je našao podršku, posebno među favoriziranim, poput Josepha Bastianicha, vlasnika Babboa i pjegave svinje, koji su osvojili pojedinačne zvijezde. & quotWe 'srećni smo što ih imamo, & quot; rekao je, & quot; ali niko zaista ne razumije parametre. Teško je igrati igru ​​ako ne znate pravila. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, konsultujući glavnog kuhara u restoranu Les Halles na Manhattanu, rekao je da je njegova reakcija "da se diplomatija služi i da se red vrati u univerzum".

"Mislim da se Michelin jako trudio da pronađe ugodnu sredinu, i pravda je zadovoljena", dodao je. "Ducasse se ne srami", rekao je za Alaina Ducassea, koji je dobio tri zvjezdice, a navodno Thomas Keller dobiva svoje zaslužene tri. Najbolje od svega, Eric Ripert dobiva trostruku krunu, "rekao je o tri Michelinove zvjezdice kuharu Le Bernardina, koji je također dobio najbolje ocjene od vodiča Zagat i The New York Timesa.

Oui, ali restoran gospodina Bourdaina nije ostao bez zvjezdice. "Nismo očekivali da ćemo biti u Michelinu", rekao je. & quot; Mi smo generički francuski restoran. & quot

Gospodin Knapp, savjetnik u restoranu, ponudio je supion potvrde onima koji ne mogu sasvim razumjeti zašto bi nekoliko pohvala francuske kompanije za proizvodnju guma sa pneumatskom maskotom mogle dobiti takvu važnost. Za gradske stanovnike i domaće turiste, rekao je, Michelinov vodič će imati "mali utjecaj na poslovanje".

"U prvoj godini života restorana, New York Times ima veći utjecaj od bilo kojeg drugog vodiča, uključujući Zagata", rekao je. & quotNo s vremenom, Zagat je moćan. & quot

S obzirom na izvor ocjenjivanja - preporuke gostiju i#x27 preporuka - & quotZagat predstavlja demokratiju, dok Michelin predstavlja ekskluzivnost & quot;

Gospodinu Lapeu, davanje quotstar jedan je od težih dijelova našeg poslovanja, ali čitatelji svakako znaju kako to nadoknaditi. & Quot

& quotNaprimjer, & quot; rekao je, & citira javnost da ste generalno ljubazni, mogli bi oduzeti nešto, razmatrajući vašu recenziju. & quot

Međutim, same ocjene imaju neizbježnost. "Gledajte, neko će vam dati ocjenu, baš kao što će se talasi razbiti na plaži", rekao je gospodin Bourdain.

Za najstrastvenije lovce na restorane, međutim, zvijezde mogu biti besmislene. "Ljubitelji prve noći vole tamo stići, zbog blagog otvaranja, a zvijezde su u tom trenutku preuranjene", rekla je Joanna Pruess, autorica kuharske knjige i savjetnica, koja je supruga gospodina Lapea. & quotNakon toga? Zvijezde mi ne znače mnogo - jer se često ne slažem & quot


Michelin preuzima grad, nekima daje loš ukus

Osim toga, nekoliko dragocjenih Njujorčana čak je i vidjelo prvi Michelinov vodič koji će ocjenjivati ​​gradske restorane: sutra se prodaje po cijeni od 16,95 dolara. No, već u inbred petrijevoj zdjelici koja je Gotham's foodie mélange, novi vodič je uzrok selebre.

& quotSvijet restorana je užurban. Ljudi jedva čekaju da se dočepaju knjige ", rekao je Malcolm M. Knapp, čija konsultantska kuća u restoranu nosi njegovo ime. & quotAli oni nisu pobijedili 't se nužno slažu sa knjigom. Kakvu biste drugu reakciju očekivali od Njujorčana? & Quot

Novi vodič procjenjuje 507 restorana, od kojih je samo 39 dobilo oznake s jednom, dvije ili tri zvjezdice.

Bien sûr, za neke od restorana bogata crvena Michelinova naslovnica bila je kulinarska zastava koja se vijorila na poslovičnog bika. & quotZaboravljajući vlastito mjesto, samo pogledajte spisak odličnih restorana koji nisu označeni zvjezdicom, rekao je Tony May, vlasnik talijanskog restorana San Domenico na Central Parku South koji ima dvije zvjezdice iz New York Timesa i ocijenjen je ove godine među 10 najboljih restorana u gradu prema časopisu New York. Uvršten je u Michelin, ali nema zvjezdicu.

"Ovi odabiri su diskreditacija samog Michelinovog vodiča širom svijeta", rekao je gospodin May, "budući da će dugoročno ljudi iz Evrope biti razočarani datim ocjenama."

Mon Dieu, neki su čak otkrili i dašak francuske arogancije i ponižavanje samog New Yorka. "Nema sumnje u razumne gurmane da je ovo grad -restoran broj 1 na svijetu, a to je zbog naše velike raznolikosti", rekao je Bob Lape, sedmični kritičar hrane za Crain & New York Business i dnevni kritičar WCBS-AM. & quotIpak pokušavaju nas umanjiti. U kategoriji zvijezda nema Kineza, Meksikanaca, Grka, Španjolskog, Indijca, Tajlanđana, Vijetnamca. & Quot

Dodao je: & quotOdakle dolaze? Francuska, pretpostavljam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, direktor vodiča, insistirao je na tome da "zasad definitivno postoji pozitivna reakcija", rekao je da "ne dolazimo ovdje bahato, mi ulazimo ponizno." Smatramo da je raznolikost njujorškog kulinarskog iskustva vrlo dobro zastupljena. & Quot

"Vodič nije u kamenu", rekao je. & quotLjudi bi to trebali zapamtiti. & quot To će se revidirati svake godine.

Ali gospodinu Lapeu, letimična analiza otkrila je da je "quotit jako iskrivljen francuski." G. Naret je insistirao da "quotwe ne traži nacionalnost kuhara, već ono što je na tanjiru." On je rekao da su restorani sa tri zvjezdice & quotare nisu francuski. Oni su evoluirali. & Quot

Certainement, vodič je našao podršku, posebno među favoriziranim, poput Josepha Bastianicha, vlasnika Babboa i pjegave svinje, koji su osvojili pojedinačne zvijezde. "Vrlo smo sretni što ih imamo", rekao je, "ali niko zaista ne razumije parametre." Teško je igrati igru ​​ako ne znate pravila. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, konsultujući glavnog kuhara u restoranu Les Halles na Manhattanu, rekao je da je njegova reakcija "da se diplomatija služi i da se red vrati u univerzum".

"Mislim da se Michelin jako trudio da pronađe ugodnu sredinu, i pravda je zadovoljena", dodao je. "Ducasse se ne srami", rekao je za Alaina Ducassea, koji je dobio tri zvjezdice, a navodno Thomas Keller dobiva svoje zaslužene tri. Najbolje od svega, Eric Ripert dobiva trostruku krunu, "rekao je o tri Michelinove zvjezdice kuharu Le Bernardina, koji je također dobio najbolje ocjene od vodiča Zagat i The New York Timesa.

Oui, ali restoran gospodina Bourdaina nije ostao bez zvjezdice. "Nismo očekivali da ćemo biti u Michelinu", rekao je. & quot; Mi smo generički francuski restoran. & quot

Gospodin Knapp, savjetnik u restoranu, ponudio je supion potvrde onima koji ne mogu sasvim razumjeti zašto bi nekoliko pohvala francuske kompanije za proizvodnju guma sa pneumatskom maskotom mogle dobiti takvu važnost. Za gradske stanovnike i domaće turiste, rekao je, Michelinov vodič će imati "mali utjecaj na poslovanje".

"U prvoj godini života restorana, New York Times ima veći utjecaj od bilo kojeg drugog vodiča, uključujući Zagata", rekao je. & quotNo s vremenom, Zagat je moćan. & quot

S obzirom na izvor ocjenjivanja - preporuke gostiju i#x27 preporuka - & quotZagat predstavlja demokratiju, dok Michelin predstavlja ekskluzivnost & quot ;, dodao je on.

Gospodinu Lapeu, davanje quotstar jedan je od težih dijelova našeg poslovanja, ali čitatelji svakako znaju kako to nadoknaditi. & Quot

& quotNaprimjer, & quot; rekao je, & citira javnost da ste generalno ljubazni, mogli bi oduzeti nešto, razmatrajući vašu recenziju. & quot

Međutim, same ocjene imaju neizbježnost. "Gledajte, neko će vam dati ocjenu, baš kao što će se talasi razbiti na plaži", rekao je gospodin Bourdain.

Za najstrastvenije lovce na restorane, međutim, zvijezde mogu biti besmislene. "Ljubitelji prve noći vole tamo stići, zbog blagog otvaranja, a zvijezde su u tom trenutku preuranjene", rekla je Joanna Pruess, autorica kuharske knjige i savjetnica, koja je supruga gospodina Lapea. & quotNakon toga? Zvijezde mi ne znače mnogo - jer se često ne slažem & quot


Michelin preuzima grad, nekima daje loš ukus

Osim toga, nekoliko dragocjenih Njujorčana čak je i vidjelo prvi Michelinov vodič koji će ocjenjivati ​​gradske restorane: sutra se prodaje po cijeni od 16,95 dolara. No, već u inbred petrijevoj zdjelici koja je Gotham's foodie mélange, novi vodič je uzrok selebre.

& quotSvijet restorana je užurban. Ljudi jedva čekaju da se dočepaju knjige ", rekao je Malcolm M. Knapp, čija konsultantska kuća u restoranu nosi njegovo ime. & quotAli oni nisu pobijedili 't se nužno slažu s knjigom. Kakvu biste drugu reakciju očekivali od Njujorčana? & Quot

Novi vodič procjenjuje 507 restorana, od kojih je samo 39 dobilo oznake s jednom, dvije ili tri zvjezdice.

Bien sûr, za neke od restorana bogata crvena Michelinova naslovnica bila je kulinarska zastava koja se vijorila na poslovičnog bika. & quotZaboravljajući vlastito mjesto, samo pogledajte spisak odličnih restorana koji nisu označeni zvjezdicom, rekao je Tony May, vlasnik talijanskog restorana San Domenico na Central Parku South koji ima dvije zvjezdice iz New York Timesa i ocijenjen je ove godine među 10 najboljih restorana u gradu prema časopisu New York. Uvršten je u Michelin, ali nema zvjezdicu.

"Ovi odabiri su diskreditacija samog Michelinovog vodiča širom svijeta", rekao je gospodin May, "budući da će dugoročno ljudi iz Evrope biti razočarani datim ocjenama."

Mon Dieu, neki su čak otkrili i dašak francuske arogancije i ponižavanje samog New Yorka. "Nema sumnje u razumne gurmane da je ovo grad -restoran broj 1 na svijetu, i to zbog naše velike raznolikosti", rekao je Bob Lape, sedmični kritičar hrane za Crain & New York Business i dnevni kritičar WCBS-AM. & quotIpak pokušavaju nas umanjiti. U kategoriji zvijezda nema Kineza, Meksikanaca, Grka, Španjolskog, Indijca, Tajlanđana, Vijetnamca. & Quot

Dodao je: & quotOdakle dolaze? Francuska, pretpostavljam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, direktor vodiča, insistirao je na tome da "zasad definitivno postoji pozitivna reakcija", rekao je da "ne dolazimo ovdje bahato, mi ulazimo ponizno." Smatramo da je raznolikost njujorškog kulinarskog iskustva vrlo dobro zastupljena. & Quot

"Vodič nije u kamenu", rekao je. & quotLjudi bi to trebali zapamtiti. & quot To će se revidirati svake godine.

Ali gospodinu Lapeu, letimična analiza otkrila je da je "quotit izrazito iskrivljen francuski." G. Naret je insistirao na tome da "ne tražimo nacionalnost kuhara, već ono što je na tanjiru." Rekao je restorane s tri zvjezdice & quotare nisu francuski. Oni su evoluirali. & Quot

Certainement, vodič je našao podršku, posebno među favoriziranim, poput Josepha Bastianicha, vlasnika Babboa i pjegave svinje, koji su osvojili pojedinačne zvijezde. "Vrlo smo sretni što ih imamo", rekao je, "ali niko zaista ne razumije parametre." Teško je igrati igru ​​ako ne znate pravila. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, konsultujući glavnog kuhara u restoranu Les Halles na Manhattanu, rekao je da je njegova reakcija "da se diplomatija služi i da se red vrati u univerzum".

"Mislim da se Michelin jako trudio da pronađe ugodnu sredinu, i pravda je zadovoljena", dodao je. "Ducasse se ne srami", rekao je za Alaina Ducassea, koji je dobio tri zvjezdice, i navodno Thomas Keller dobiva svoje zaslužene tri. Najbolje od svega, Eric Ripert dobiva trostruku krunu, "rekao je o tri Michelinove zvjezdice kuharu Le Bernardina, koji je također dobio najbolje ocjene od vodiča Zagat i The New York Timesa.

Oui, ali restoran gospodina Bourdaina nije ostao bez zvjezdice. "Nismo očekivali da ćemo biti u Michelinu", rekao je. & quot; Mi smo generički francuski restoran. & quot

Gospodin Knapp, savjetnik u restoranu, ponudio je supion potvrde onima koji ne mogu sasvim razumjeti zašto bi nekoliko pohvala francuske kompanije za proizvodnju guma sa pneumatskom maskotom mogle dobiti takvu važnost. Za gradske stanovnike i domaće turiste, rekao je, Michelinov vodič će imati "mali utjecaj na poslovanje".

"U prvoj godini života restorana, New York Times ima veći utjecaj od bilo kojeg drugog vodiča, uključujući Zagata", rekao je. & quotNo s vremenom, Zagat je moćan. & quot

S obzirom na izvor ocjenjivanja - preporuke gostiju i#x27 preporuka - & quotZagat predstavlja demokratiju, dok Michelin predstavlja ekskluzivnost & quot;

Gospodinu Lapeu, davanje quotstar jedan je od težih dijelova našeg poslovanja, ali čitatelji svakako znaju kako to nadoknaditi. & Quot

& quotNaprimjer, & quot; rekao je, & citira javnost da ste generalno ljubazni, mogli bi oduzeti nešto, razmatrajući vašu recenziju. & quot

Međutim, same ocjene imaju neizbježnost. "Gledajte, neko će vam dati ocjenu, baš kao što će se talasi razbiti na plaži", rekao je gospodin Bourdain.

Za najstrastvenije lovce na restorane, međutim, zvijezde mogu biti besmislene. "Ljubitelji prve noći vole tamo stići, zbog blagog otvaranja, a zvijezde su u tom trenutku preuranjene", rekla je Joanna Pruess, autorica kuharske knjige i savjetnica, koja je supruga gospodina Lapea. & quotNakon toga? Zvijezde mi ne znače mnogo - jer se često ne slažem & quot


Michelin preuzima grad, nekima daje loš ukus

Osim toga, nekoliko dragocjenih Njujorčana čak je i vidjelo prvi Michelinov vodič koji će ocjenjivati ​​gradske restorane: sutra se prodaje po cijeni od 16,95 dolara. No, već u inbred petrijevoj zdjelici koja je Gotham's foodie mélange, novi vodič je uzrok selebre.

& quotSvijet restorana je užurban. Ljudi jedva čekaju da se dočepaju knjige ", rekao je Malcolm M. Knapp, čija konsultantska kuća u restoranu nosi njegovo ime. & quotAli oni nisu pobijedili 't se nužno slažu sa knjigom. Kakvu biste drugu reakciju očekivali od Njujorčana? & Quot

Novi vodič procjenjuje 507 restorana, od kojih je samo 39 dobilo oznake s jednom, dvije ili tri zvjezdice.

Bien sûr, za neke od restorana bogata crvena Michelinova naslovnica bila je kulinarska zastava koja se vijorila na poslovičnog bika. & quotZaboravljajući vlastito mjesto, samo pogledajte spisak odličnih restorana koji nisu označeni zvjezdicom, rekao je Tony May, vlasnik talijanskog restorana San Domenico na Central Parku South koji ima dvije zvjezdice iz New York Timesa i ocijenjen je ove godine među 10 najboljih restorana u gradu prema časopisu New York. Uvršten je u Michelin, ali nema zvjezdicu.

"Ovi odabiri su diskreditacija samog Michelinovog vodiča širom svijeta", rekao je gospodin May, "budući da će dugoročno ljudi iz Evrope biti razočarani datim ocjenama."

Mon Dieu, neki su čak otkrili i dašak francuske arogancije i ponižavanje samog New Yorka. "Nema sumnje u razumne gurmane da je ovo grad -restoran broj 1 na svijetu, a to je zbog naše velike raznolikosti", rekao je Bob Lape, sedmični kritičar hrane za Crain & New York Business i dnevni kritičar WCBS-AM. & quotIpak pokušavaju nas umanjiti. U kategoriji zvijezda nema Kineza, Meksikanaca, Grka, Španjolskog, Indijca, Tajlanđana, Vijetnamca. & Quot

Dodao je: & quotOdakle dolaze? Francuska, pretpostavljam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, direktor vodiča, insistirao je na tome da "zasad definitivno postoji pozitivna reakcija", rekao je da "ne dolazimo ovdje bahato, mi ulazimo ponizno." Smatramo da je raznolikost njujorškog kulinarskog iskustva vrlo dobro zastupljena. & Quot

"Vodič nije u kamenu", rekao je. & quotLjudi bi to trebali zapamtiti. & quot To će se revidirati svake godine.

Ali gospodinu Lapeu, letimična analiza otkrila je da je "quotit izrazito iskrivljen francuski." G. Naret je insistirao na tome da "ne tražimo nacionalnost kuhara, već ono što je na tanjiru." Rekao je restorane s tri zvjezdice & quotare nisu francuski. Oni su evoluirali. & Quot

Certainement, vodič je našao podršku, posebno među favoriziranim, poput Josepha Bastianicha, vlasnika Babboa i pjegave svinje, koji su osvojili pojedinačne zvijezde. & quotWe 'srećni smo što ih imamo, & quot; rekao je, & quot; ali niko zaista ne razumije parametre. Teško je igrati igru ​​ako ne znate pravila. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, konsultujući glavnog kuhara u restoranu Les Halles na Manhattanu, rekao je da je njegova reakcija "da se diplomatija služi i da se red vrati u univerzum".

"Mislim da se Michelin jako trudio da pronađe ugodnu sredinu, i pravda je zadovoljena", dodao je. "Ducasse se ne srami", rekao je za Alaina Ducassea, koji je dobio tri zvjezdice, i navodno Thomas Keller dobiva svoje zaslužene tri. Najbolje od svega, Eric Ripert dobiva trostruku krunu, "rekao je o tri Michelinove zvjezdice kuharu Le Bernardina, koji je također dobio najbolje ocjene od vodiča Zagat i The New York Timesa.

Oui, ali restoran gospodina Bourdaina nije ostao bez zvjezdice. "Nismo očekivali da ćemo biti u Michelinu", rekao je. & quot; Mi smo generički francuski restoran. & quot

Gospodin Knapp, konzultant u restoranu, ponudio je supion potvrde onima koji ne mogu sasvim razumjeti zašto bi nekoliko pohvala francuske kompanije za proizvodnju guma sa pneumatskom maskotom mogle dobiti takvu važnost. Za gradske stanovnike i domaće turiste, rekao je, Michelinov vodič će imati "mali utjecaj na poslovanje".

"U prvoj godini života restorana, New York Times ima veći utjecaj od bilo kojeg drugog vodiča, uključujući Zagata", rekao je. & quotNo s vremenom, Zagat je moćan. & quot

S obzirom na izvor ocjenjivanja - preporuke gostiju i#x27 preporuka - & quotZagat predstavlja demokratiju, dok Michelin predstavlja ekskluzivnost & quot;

Gospodinu Lapeu, davanje quotstar jedan je od težih dijelova našeg poslovanja, ali čitatelji svakako znaju kako to nadoknaditi. & Quot

& quotNaprimjer, & quot; rekao je, & citira javnost da ste generalno ljubazni, mogli bi oduzeti nešto, razmatrajući vašu recenziju. & quot

Međutim, same ocjene imaju neizbježnost. "Gledajte, neko će vam dati ocjenu, baš kao što će se talasi razbiti na plaži", rekao je gospodin Bourdain.

Za najstrastvenije lovce na restorane, međutim, zvijezde mogu biti besmislene. "Ljubitelji prve noći vole tamo stići, zbog blagog otvaranja, a zvijezde su u tom trenutku preuranjene", rekla je Joanna Pruess, autorica kuharske knjige i savjetnica, koja je supruga gospodina Lapea. & quotNakon toga? Zvijezde mi ne znače mnogo - jer se često ne slažem & quot


Michelin preuzima grad, nekima daje loš ukus

Osim toga, nekoliko dragocjenih Njujorčana čak je i vidjelo prvi Michelinov vodič koji će ocjenjivati ​​gradske restorane: sutra se prodaje po cijeni od 16,95 dolara. No, već u inbred petrijevoj zdjelici koja je Gotham's foodie mélange, novi vodič je uzrok selebre.

& quotSvijet restorana je užurban. Ljudi jedva čekaju da se dočepaju knjige ", rekao je Malcolm M. Knapp, čija konsultantska kuća u restoranu nosi njegovo ime. & quotAli oni nisu pobijedili 't se nužno slažu sa knjigom. Kakvu biste drugu reakciju očekivali od Njujorčana? & Quot

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Michelin Takes On the City, Giving Some a Bad Taste

Mais oui, precious few New Yorkers have even seen the first Michelin guide that will rate city restaurants: it goes on sale tomorrow for $16.95. But already, in the inbred petri dish that is Gotham's foodie mélange, the new guide is a cause célèbre.

"The restaurant world is abuzz. People can't wait to get their hands on the book," said Malcolm M. Knapp, whose restaurant consulting firm bears his name. "But they won't necessarily agree with the book. What other reaction would you expect from New Yorkers?"

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Michelin Takes On the City, Giving Some a Bad Taste

Mais oui, precious few New Yorkers have even seen the first Michelin guide that will rate city restaurants: it goes on sale tomorrow for $16.95. But already, in the inbred petri dish that is Gotham's foodie mélange, the new guide is a cause célèbre.

"The restaurant world is abuzz. People can't wait to get their hands on the book," said Malcolm M. Knapp, whose restaurant consulting firm bears his name. "But they won't necessarily agree with the book. What other reaction would you expect from New Yorkers?"

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Michelin Takes On the City, Giving Some a Bad Taste

Mais oui, precious few New Yorkers have even seen the first Michelin guide that will rate city restaurants: it goes on sale tomorrow for $16.95. But already, in the inbred petri dish that is Gotham's foodie mélange, the new guide is a cause célèbre.

"The restaurant world is abuzz. People can't wait to get their hands on the book," said Malcolm M. Knapp, whose restaurant consulting firm bears his name. "But they won't necessarily agree with the book. What other reaction would you expect from New Yorkers?"

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Michelin Takes On the City, Giving Some a Bad Taste

Mais oui, precious few New Yorkers have even seen the first Michelin guide that will rate city restaurants: it goes on sale tomorrow for $16.95. But already, in the inbred petri dish that is Gotham's foodie mélange, the new guide is a cause célèbre.

"The restaurant world is abuzz. People can't wait to get their hands on the book," said Malcolm M. Knapp, whose restaurant consulting firm bears his name. "But they won't necessarily agree with the book. What other reaction would you expect from New Yorkers?"

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Pogledajte video: Gregor Vračko po prejemu Michelinove zvezdice (Oktobar 2021).